You can have a fairly narrow crotch where you bow the branch after the crotch to spread it when you tie with string, creating the spread by curving the branch or bowing it. You can do it correctly or incorrectly with string- just tie it close enough to the trunk to spread the crotch angle itself. Spreaders will usually do this automatically. However, when a branch gets long and keeps heading straight up even after spreading (as does N. Spy), tying may become your only option without using 4' spreaders. This won't be a problem with G. Rush.

Trees that are root-bound tend to slow branch extension and shed interior foliage. No matter how much sun you give a root-bound Ficus, it will still have that poodle look with it's foliage concentrated at branch tips in tufts. I can take one glance at a ficus and tell you if it's root bound without even looking at the roots or soil. I would simply look at the decreasing distance between leaf bundle scars for the evidence. Once a plant becomes root-bound, it is permanently stunted in growth - even if you plant it in the ground. You cannot correct root-bound conditions by potting up. Sure, the plant may show something that looks like a growth spurt, but that is simply the tree returning to growing a little closer to it's normal genetic vigor. There is indeed very good reasons to 'chop off the roots', because it is the only way you can ensure that plants have at least the opportunity to grow at their genetic potential. NOT root-pruning sentences them to a life of reduced potential. (Plant Production in Containers II, by Carl Whitcomb PhD) Proper attention to roots is the primary reason bonsai trees can live and remain perfectly healthy for hundreds of years in tiny containers while the average Ficus houseplant grower struggles to keep a tree only a few years old growing with decent vitality in 5-10 gallons of soil. I wouldn't suggest that people north of Mason/Dixon do any cutting back or repotting/root-pruning until the plant has had a chance to recover from it's winter rest and build up some energy reserves - June at the earliest, July is better. Al

OK, so you guys have me wanting to try lavender AGAIN.... I just ripped out my weed-like perennial bed (spiderwort and lambs ears) and am looking for a replacement plant. I have tried every variety of lavender sold in my area and although some of them did extremely well for a year or two or three, all died eventually. After reading the above posts, I suspect over-fussing was the problem. I did't think I overwatered, but from a lavender's point of view, maybe I did. So. If I try this thing again, can anyone suggest a variety? My prior goal was to turn part of my garden into a lavender field with rows of different varieties. Right now I'd settle for one row of one variety doing well!!! Any suggestions would be much appreciated. The area is full sun and well drained. The soil was previously ammended but not touched lately so I hope it'll be OK... Thanks, Ann in 7A, Maryland

I was about to write the exact same comment as Flora. maybe they are just a little pale. There is a way to obtain an organic nitrogen fertilizer, discussed many times here and in the Soil forum.