Yes, your pH is too high. If you can get it closer to 7, you'll be good. Sulfur takes time to modify soil pH, and it's hard on the fungi. I use pelletized sulfur. Instructions should be on the outside of the bag.

Looking at your soil analysis, I'm going to guess that you live in the Piedmont area.

Is this for a garden or a lawn? If it's a lawn, I don't think I'd try using sulfur to lower the pH. In order for it to be effective, it really should be buried. If it's on the surface, too much is lost as gas and you don't get a lot of benefit.

As idaho gardener pointed out, it takes quite a while for the sulfur to start working, but the effects last a fairly long time, too.

The 3lb/1000 sq ft = 130 lb/A N, seems like an awful lot considering you'll be getting some from the soil also.

It's a perennial garden.

I don't know where the Piedmont area is so I'm guessing I don't live there. I'm in Louisville. There's a lot of limestone in the area so maybe that explains it. Is there a better alternative to sulfur or do I just wait the "few years" that it apparently takes?

If it's a perennial garden, what I would do is get a bulb auger and use a drill to make some holes about 12-18 inches deep. Put the sulfur in the holes, leaving 4-6 inches on top. Cover with some soil and water it in.

In the short term, you can get a very short lived change with some diluted vinegar, but make sure you don't get any on the leaves.

I don't know what to do with the azaleas. I've never tried to grow any. For other plants, if they have chlorosis (yellow leaves or yellow with green veins), you can spray them with a water soluble iron product when it's fairly cool out. It helps give even coverage if you add a little detergent or shampoo to the water.

You can also add some chelated iron to the soil. It should also be covered or watered in (it doesn't need to be deeply covered, but shouldn't stay right on top of the soil). With a pH of 7.6, the more common (and less expensive) EDTA chelated iron will probably not help. You'll want to look for EDDHA chelated iron.

There's a relatively new product called iron sucrate that is made with molasses and is supposed to have iron that is available to plants. I don't know how common that is. I've only seen small bags of fertilizer from Miller that have it.

If you can get it, greensand is supposed to work well for the iron (and maybe other micronutrients). I can't get it around here and have no personal experience with it, but I've read others' posts about it and it seems to work well for them.

The Cation Exchange Capacity, CEC, is a measurement of the ability of positively charged ions to move from soil particles to the soil solution. Almost every soil test I have seen from most every lab will tell you to add 3 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, so that really means nothing except in the experience of those that develop the guidelines for those soil test labs and in a conventional garden that probably will be needed. The same can be said for the P and K, although the amounts vary some. Anyway, those amounts are negligable.
Your pH is a bit high, optimal soil pH would be in the 6.2 to 6.8 range. Whether yours would be too high or not would depend on how much organic matter is in your soil. Soils well endowed with organic matter can have a soil pH that varies from that optimal and still produce quite well. Take you soils test under advisement and with everything else you know about your soil, Humus Level, draining ability, ability to retain moisture, Tilth, smell, and amount and activity of the Soil Food Web make decieiosn about what needs to be done.
A periodic soil test, done by a good reliable laboratory, is one tool to use in determining the health of your soil. A soil test is not the end all and be all of what you need to know.

Here is a link that might be useful: What is CEC