DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE IF YOU HAVE NOT DRAINED THE CYLINDERS

I cannot stress that enough. You should also change the oil, clean the carburetor, etc. before starting it. If you pull the plugs, I don't think you can hurt it by cranking with the starter, and 50 amps won't fry anything. A standard lawnmower battery has ~200 amps

rowdy, I don't know where you were when this subject (sub-marine Satoh 370 diesel 4X4) was discussed the first couple of times (and this makes #3). Click the link and get an idea of what is (or is not) going on. It sort of makes one wonder why people ask for advice if they have no intention of following any of it.

Here is a link that might be useful: The second plea for advice

rowdy235. Where are the carburetor and plugs on a diesel engine???????????

u got me mownie.....i went back late last night....printed those instructions and read through. the injectors have been pulled out carefully. we would do the tire throw method but the tires for this tractor are on there new running satoh that they use daily. i was hoping with the injectors pulled we could turn the engine using the starter safely so that is really what my question is.

thanks again

cody

OK, injectors are removed, right? IF this tractor has a "Manual clutch with gear transmission" (not a hydrostatic drive), and has a "differential lock" pedal, you can do the following in lieu of having tires on the tractor. Place the transmission and "hi-lo" box into the highest gear possible (just like in the tire throw trick). Have someone engage the differential lock and hold it engaged (you might need to turn the axle to affect engagement of diff lock). Use a LONG & STRONG pry bar or solid length of strong hardwood as a lever. Place your lever between 2 of the wheel lugs (or a lug and the center hub if there is a hub) and "bar" the engine over this way. If there is no diff lock (or it doesn't work) you will have to "lock" the opposite side of axle using another lever in the same way, or you can just get 2 persons with a lever on each side of the axle and both people turn the axles in the same direction. Using lengths of wood is preferred as it will not damage the threads on the lugs. Remember the part about putting some "rust bust" or other light, penetrating oil into each cylinder BEFORE you attempt to "turn" the engine. As to "how much juice" you can "put into it": My guess is that this engine (normally) would "draw" about 800 to 1,000 AMP through the starter upon cold start engagement. Therefore, any battery (or combination of batteries) would need have "cranking amps" capacity of at least 1,000 AMP. Having more AMP available does not mean "putting more amp in". The electrical device (starter in this case) will "DRAW" as much as it requires, and nothing more.

thanx mownie...probably woulnt have a chance to try this till later this week or next weekend. i had thought about doing this but thought it would be to much pressure. by peice of wood....your talking 2x4 correct? and with this 2x4 u would place it diagonally between to lug nuts and then move the tire?? when i was looking at the tractor the only thing that seemed to have a lot of interior rust was the fuel tank. could i replace the fuel tank with a poly one if i could find one the right size...or simple just weld a new one?(if the engine will turn....)

thanks

Since you won't be doing this until next weekend anyway - get some mystery oil in the cylinders. It will help loosen things up, and help avoid damage if you have some rust in there once you get it turning. If you can't get it to turn after a few days of this, you can rig up the pry bar that others are suggesting to keep constant pressure on the crank, like hang a weight off the end of the bar and leave it for a few days.

When you change the oil, add a quart of diesel or of engine flush, you need something to cut the water/oil sludge so it can be circulated through the engine and drained. Even if you don't get it started you can rotate the engine to get oil flow and then drain and re-fill again with fresh oil. You have to get the water out sooner rather than later. Hope this helps.

Yes, I'm talking 2 X 4 or similar about 6 feet long. You indicated that "the tires are on their new running tractor". Are the "steel rims" still mounted to the axle ends? or are the axle ends "bare" with just the lugs showing? If the axle ends are bare (the wheels are removed), place one end of 2 X 4 so that it rests on 2 lugs. Next, either lift up, or push down on the other end of 2 X 4 so that you will cause the axle to rotate. If you are using 2 people ( one on each axle end, each with his own 2 X 4) be sure that both people are pushing or pulling the same direction. If the steel rims are still mounted to the axle ends, do the wheels have any slots, hand holes, or the like that a short piece of chain can be passed through and then hooked back together to form a short loop or noose?? I'll try to work up a diagram of this and post it shortly. In the mean time, about that rusty fuel tank. The tank is perfectly "salvable". Click the link below and check out the "HOW TO" info using a product called "Kreem".

Here is a link that might be useful: Kreem that rust into oblivion

yetty, below is a link to someone who says they have parts and manuals for your Beaver. Just because they call it a Beaver does not mean you're supposed to throw it in a pond :^)

Here is a link that might be useful: Manual link to a manual book (and parts)

yetty, here is a link to a forum site with a section devoted to Satoh/Mitsubishi. You probably need to check it out and save it to "My favorites" or whatever you have in your computer. It appears there is a wealth of info for your digging pleasure.

Here is a link that might be useful: Satoh/Mitsubishi FAQ etc.

yetty, here are 2 ways to "back turn" an engine. Upper left describes a way if wheels are on axle but tires are off wheels. Lower right applies if the wheels are off vehicle altogether.{{gwi:314552}}

are the wheels suppose to move in reverse or are those just the arrow directions?? is that what you mean by back turn.

Well, it depends on which side of the tractor you think the diagram represents as to which way you think the arrows and direction of rotation is. I didn't bother to give a front or back of tractor reference in the drawing, but I guess if you are looking at the computer monitor, to your left would be the front of tractor (toward engine). For what you are doing at this point (trying to determine if engine is able to rotate) it does not matter which way you turn it. You may even have to turn it in both directions alternately. The term "Back turning the engine" means you are "turning the output to cause rotation of the engine (in this case, the wheels or hubs). You are essentially doing what happens if you start a gear transmission vehicle by rolling it down a hill and then letting out on the clutch. If you do that, the engine can be started even if it does not have a starter. The difference here is that you just want to rotate the engine, not start it. The purpose of putting it in the highest possible gear position is to make it easier for YOU to do this manually. Believe me it will work. Years ago when I worked for IHC, we would jack up one rear wheel, release the parking brake and put the transmission in 10th or 13th gear. Then one person would carefully "throw" the raised tire against the slack in the driveline in the proper direction. Each time the drivetrain was "nudged" by the impact, the engine would turn slightly. The technician that was watching the valves move or for timing marks to index would call out to the "tire slammer" to "Hold". After the necessary adjustments or checks were made the tech would call out "Again" and the process would continue until the engine had been completly rotated 720 degrees (2 turns of crankshaft, only 1 turn of camshaft) and all valves/injectors were adjusted. We would employ this method whenever an added Air Conditioner Compressor or Power Steering Pump made it difficult or impossible to turn the engine with a long ratchet or pull handle. Bumping the engine with the electric starter was a no no because of the risk that the engine would "catch" and start up. The old "back turn" method worked well for us.

Hi Cody, just curious how things might be going. I have a S370D and might be interested in the tractor for parts, and in case you were wondering it hasn't been in a pond as yet.