Bomber: Good advice from Murky. You might think about building a stronger grape arbor when the ground thaws. There will always be high winds at this time of year, and when your vines are heavier and more extensive the problems could be worse. Wooden posts sunk 18 inches into the ground are better than a couple of light steel posts that are driven in. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Bluberrier, what we're talking about here is a steel trellis which means you've gotta be able to weld. Lowes, Home Depot, Amazon etc sell a cheap 110v Lincoln wire feed welder that'll git 'er done.110v is important because you can use heavy duty extension cords or a small generator to reach the site. Unpainted steel is the way to go, just let it rust and drive in new post bottoms every thirty years and weld together. As cheap steel goes there's 1/4" pencil steel (used for concrete reinforcing); 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8" rebar; 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/4, 1 1/2, 2" etc ID (inside diameter which means OD outside diameter is bigger so 1/2" ID is more like 13/16 OD) black pipe which is used for gas piping and sold at plumbing supply houses; and of course good old tee posts, 6,8,10' with 2' under the ground. Rebar and pencil steel comes in 20' lengths and is sold at ready mix plants, Lowes etc. and goes for about $6 for 1/2" around here. Black pipe comes in 21' lengths and 1/2" is about $14 around here. The key to getting a good price is to call contractor's supply houses and ask for it. Say something like " I need a price on 9 lengths of 1/2" black pipe and 4 lengths of 1" black pipe. I'm going to weld it up into a grape trellis so it can be rusty, but it has to be straight". Then be prepared to haul it off on a pickup with a lumber rack. Black pipe is easy to carry on a lumber rack because it's so stiff. Maybe buy the pipe first and then pick up any rebar you need so it stiffens when bundled with the pipe. Sometimes it works best to bundle 7 pieces of pipe together with a ton of duct tape then tie THAT down. Industrial suppliers don't like to hand hold so come prepared and act like you know what you are doing. For the price, 1/2" black pipe and tee posts are a heck of a deal so I suggest you design around the 21' length, which is what I did. You could make a 21' square trellis with 1" pipe around the perimeter and 1/2" pipe on 7' centers in between. This would make a 3 row (14' wide) by three row arbor with 9 posts and nine grape vines trained up them. The 14' dimension leaves 7' to split in a 42" cantilever on each side. Then you run high tensile wire (available at fencing suppliers) on 21" centers which is tensioned with turnbuckles and pulls against the stiffer 1" pipe on the perimeter. Weld little one inch long tabs of pencil steel verticle on the center 1/2" pipes on the 21" centers to tie the high tensile wire to. Use some 20" or 24" lengths of 1/2" rebar to make angle braces on the four corners. This all may seem hard to visualize, but lay it out on graph paper and it's really pretty simple. Make each 1/4" equal 21". But that's not what I did. I have about a 75' long trellis. The 1/2" pipe runs north to south with only wire running east to west. The ends are 1 1/2" pipes in the ground supporting a 1 1/2" horizontal, and a deadman anchor and wire pulling against the horizontal in 2 places at each post for the wires to tension against. Of course 3 rows 7' apart would make sense here also, but I went 4 rows at 7' for 21' w and welded half a length onto a full length for a total of 31' 6" with 66" of cantilever on each side of the 21'. 3x22= 66 so the outer 3 wires are at 22" oc. Truth to tell, I went 9' between pipes for no particular reason, but the resulting 28 grapes was not enough to experiment with new varieties, so I planted grapes half way between on free standing 4' posts for 4x13= 52 vines. I train the vines on the wires using a Geneva double curtain training system ( described in The Grape Grower by Lon Rombaugh, which anyone with more than 5 vines MUST buy). Finally varieties. All the varieties you ordered sound fine. Steuben has been fantastic for me, with catawba mediocre in comparison. Reliance worked well in every way for me except my family didn't like the flavor as much as others. Canadice is great but is not as aggressive a grower as the others so don't plant it on a corner. Jupiter (raintreenursery.com) is by far the best grape I grow, a must have. Glenora is also a must have. Suffolk Red is a family favorite. "Price" is excellent and very early. Venus is very good. Yates is very late and keeps on the vine into Nov., with average flavor. rakgrape.com is a top supplier, and Raintree seems to be out of Price right now. I apologize for the length of the post, but hope it helps.

Our grape arbor was already here when we moved here. I can't post a picture but I'll describe it as best I can. It's built in a square. The 4 corner poles are some kind of pole or pipe, similar to a clothes line pole. There is fencing on all 4 sides & on top. I don't know what type of fencing but it's heavy-duty. If you put a pole on the top to keep the roof from sagging, you could use chicken wire. Hog wire or those cattle panels would work as well. I'm not sure why, but the fencing doesn't start until about a foot off the ground. On the 4th side there is an opening about the size of a doorway where you can go inside the arbor. To get grapes from the top, I have to get a chair & stand on it. My husband had a hammock in there until the kids tore it up because with all the grape vines & leaves covering it, you can't tell anyone's in there - great place for a nap!

Radical - Vines are HEAVY, and wood can't span 14 feet and hold much of anything. You need to be using 4x4 or 6x6 for the uprights, 2x6 doubled cross beams, with 2x6 set vertically for the stuff on top. Consider building the pergola frame out of steel pipe, and making decorative covers (a box beam of 1x4s or 1x6s) for the visible uprights and cross beams. It's stronger, easier, and cheaper.