Upper cylinder lubricant
14 years ago
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- 14 years ago
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weed wacker will not start
Comments (13)The majority of small two stroke engines do not have an intake valve. They are piston ported. The piston passing the intake port functions as the valve. During the compression stroke, the piston rises creating a partial vacuum in the crankcase. As piston continues to rise it uncovers the intake port, drawing air-fuel mix into the crankcase. Above the piston, as it rises, the air-fuel mix is compressed, until it is ignited at or near TDC. The piston now starts down in power/scavenge stroke. As the piston moves down, it covers the intake port, preventing backflow of air-fuel into the carburetor. Pressure is also building in the crankcase as the piston falls. Also the piston also uncovers the transfer port, which causes air-fuel mix to flow into the combustion chamber and forces the previously burned mix out the exhaust port and into the muffler. Reed valves are used in higher performance engines (karts, some chain saws) to allow more aggressive porting and timing designs and eliminate backflow to the carburetor. Rotary valves are also used to achieve the same high performance. Rotary valves are more expensive and tend to be used in high performance motorcycles. Kawasaki was a big believer....See MoreTicking GX 345
Comments (2)It is entirely possible that the "ticking" is due to a bent valve pushrod. This might have happened because one of the engine valves was "stuck" open when you cranked the engine. With a valve stuck open, the pushrod can fall out of place when the camshaft moves but the stuck valve does not move the rocker arm as it would if the valve were free. Sometimes the pushrod falls completely out of place and that cylinder becomes "a dead misfire". Sometimes the pushrod is "caught" on the edge of the rocker arm when the piston comes up and strikes the stuck valve (which does not happen when the valves are free) which bends the pushrod. A lot of times the bending is severe enough that the cylinder becomes a dead misfire even if the pushrod falls back into its cup on the rocker arm. I supposed that some slight bending could cause a noise due to too much clearance in that valve position (because any bending effectively shortens the length of the pushrod which increases valve lash). I would suggest checking the valve clearance at the earliest opportunity. If you find a valve with much more clearance than the OEM spec, you need to remove the pushrod for that valve and roll it across a smooth flat surface to detect any "wobbling" that will result from a bent pushrod. A straight pushrod will roll easily and freely if placed on a smooth inclined surface. A bent pushrod will wobble or maybe not roll at all on the same surface. Replace bent pushrods with new. The valve that sticks is most often the intake valve. Sticking occurs because of varnish formation on the valve stem where it is exposed to the air/fuel mixture flowing into the cylinder. This varnish is formed in part because the gasoline in the intake draft washes the lubricating oil off the valve stem leaving only a sticky residue which can "glue" the valve stem to the valve guide long enough to allow the damaging chain of events to take place. To help guard against sticking valves which lead to this condition, add some Marvel Mystery Oil or other brand of "upper cylinder lubricant" to the gasoline. This will leave a light coat of oil on the intake valve stem where it is exposed in the intake passage of the cylinder head. This little bit of oil helps to keep the lower end of the valve stem "wet" and sticking is not likely to occur....See Morebent push rod
Comments (21)"...It get over 30 days old and it won't hardly even burn..." Hey daniel - go get yourself a 30 day... heck, make it a 60 day old bucket of gas, put a match to it and see if it "hardly burns". Your comment is unfortuanetly Not True. Yes, ethanol attacts moisture, but it actually helps stabilize the gasoline. Water and pure gas causes gelling. Ethanol keeps the water molecules trapped (molecular-speak) and effectively "disolved" in the gas... for a longer time. Unless you buy gas from a bulk-source, like farm-supply outfits, all gas comes with various additives, some of which make it last longer. Not for ever, but certainly longer than 30 days. FYI: I winter-store my summer car for 4-5 months.... no stabilizer... just a tank full of gas (to keep the tank from breathing)... 120-150 day old gas certainly burns, and does not clog my filter. Been doing this for 18 years. and if you still have any doubts, I do the same with my boat... it gets stored from Oct to May (7 months - 200 days), and the tanks are not full (my oh my - I'm asking for trouble)... and guess what.... been doing that for over 20 years. Not a single glitch. Now I am not saying that fuel varnish and gelling does not happen - it does... but not in the timeframes described - unless it's bad-fuel to begin with - ie a bad formulations. And perhaps the gas here in canada is formulated differently, but I would doubt it. "...These engines are also meant to be ran on a higher octane fule due to the ethanol in them...." Not sure about Kawa engines, but in general small engines are not meant to be run on higher octane.... and even if they were, it is absolutely NOT related to the ethanol. In fact, ethanol raises the octane rating of fuel... somehow you got your facts criss-crossed bud. cheers!...See MoreRewiring Craftsman GT5000 from Kohler to Briggs
Comments (14)In looking at the wiring diagrams for both the machines (917.276020 & 917.276310), I see no differences between the two except for the Kohler version (020) featuring an operator presence relay where the Briggs version (310) features a more "complex" seat switch to accomplish the same goal. If,........you are connecting the white wire to the small terminal on the starter solenoid, you are making the correct connection,........AND the solenoid is in fact mounted to a grounded, metal surface or has been provided with a separate grounding jumper wire to ground the solenoid case! So, you might want to test that the solenoid is grounded by touching the probe of a test light (or volt meter) to the battery positive post and the other end/lead to the metal case of the solenoid body. If you detect voltage or the light burns, the solenoid is grounded. If you don't detect voltage, it is not grounded and you need to address that first. So let's go through some checks to determine what the trouble might be. The following outline is a step by step that will guide you through. Refer to the wiring diagram for your 917.276020 for the identifying "alpha characters" I refer to in the text. Make certain there is not a blown fuse before you do these tests. (begin test outline) It could be a "bad key switch" but my feeling is "bad clutch/brake switch", but it could be a "bad PTO switch" just as easy, so let's do some testing first. You have a volt meter and/or 12V test light? Be advised that moving or wiggling wires while doing these tests could result in continuity being accidently restored AND this might cause the starter to engage when you don't expect it to. To guard against this, unplug the small white wire from the starter solenoid and cover the wire terminal with tape to prevent a short. First off, you will need to access the backside of the key switch. Step 1. Find the WHITE wire on the back of key switch connector. (leave the connector attached to the switch) While holding the key in the start position, probe the area where the white wire enters the connector body with a test light or a volt meter. You should detect voltage on the test light or the volt meter. If you do not detect voltage, replace the key switch. If you detect voltage, go to step 2. Step 2. Find the PTO switch and identify terminals C & G on the switch. Probe terminal C while the key is in start position. If you detect voltage at C, probe terminal G next. If you detect voltage at C but not at G, replace the PTO switch (make double dang sure the PTO switch is in the OFF position). If you detect voltage at C & G, go to step 3. Step 3. Locate the clutch/brake interlock switch (should be near the pedal or close by, must be attached so pedal linkage can operate the switch. This switch will feature 4 wires, 2 will be white. With the key in the start position, and the pedal locked or held down, probe the white wires of the brake/clutch switch. If you detect voltage on one white wire only, make certain that the switch plunger is actually moving in far enough to operate the switch. If the plunger is moving far enough to operate the switch, but you still detect voltage on just 1 white wire of the switch, replace the clutch/brake switch. The seat switch does not inhibit cranking on this mower, it only functions to kill the ignition spark. Malfunctions in the PTO switch or the clutch/brake switch are capable of killing spark AND inhibiting the starter. Remember to reconnect the white wire to the starter solenoid after testing. I hope this helps in troubleshooting the interlock circuits. (end outline) After doing these tests, post back your results....See MoreRelated Professionals
Barrington Hills Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Wilmington Landscape Contractors · Clayton Landscape Contractors · Doctor Phillips Landscape Contractors · Homewood Landscape Contractors · Middletown Landscape Contractors · Smyrna Landscape Contractors · Tustin Landscape Contractors · Whitehall Landscape Contractors · East Norriton Landscape Contractors · Golden Valley Landscape Contractors · Raytown Landscape Contractors · Rio Linda Window Contractors · Scotts Valley Window Contractors · Sugarland Run Window Contractors- 14 years ago
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