Perhaps the first picture is Convolvulus arvensis, field bindweed, or Calystegia sepium, hedge bindweed. There is a great website for wildflowers in Minnesota...have you checked it? I wish we had one so extensive for Alaska. I may be using it, though, as many of the plants are the same, or at least could get me to the correct genus. You can do an advanced search which will get you closer than just looking at pictures, as you will know detail that we can't see in your photos. Here is a link that might be useful: Minnesota wildflowers

Just as a comment, perhaps relevant, perhaps not... I've been growing Dalea purpurea for some years now from seeds originally purchased from a restoration company up in Edmonton. This summer, my route to work has been through Bowmont Natural Environment Park, where I've, for the first time, noticed purple prairie clover in the wild. (Yeah, not too observant, I know, but anyway...) The ones I grow at home are in horrible, unimproved clay along the fence, and any "topsoil" (a euphemistic term around here for clay with most of the rocks screened out) that may once have been there, was probably largely removed when we dug out the turf. The only benefit they get is watering from a soaker hose along the back of the bed near the fence, if there's been no rain for some time. Compared to those I've seen this summer in an essentially "wild" setting (no mowing, no watering, no grazing), the ones at home are much larger, lusher plants. They are 2 to 4 times taller, have many more stalks per plant (about 3 on a quite robust specimen in the park, versus more than 10 and even well over 20 on my plants). The stems are also very leafy at home, while the others are very sparse. The flower heads on those in the park are compact wide little cylinders (up to ~2 cm long), while those at home are narrower, elongated wands up to 7 cm long (av. ~ 4-5cm). There is competition, too, from other plants at home, though I can't judge how it compares to that in the park. So, even in what I think of as really crummy gardening conditions (typical of Calgary, sigh...), it seems life is a lot easier for them than in Bowmont Park...I found it surprising that the difference was so large.

OK.. lots of your suggestions have been confirmed! I updated the photos with names that have been verified. I do think that #6 is a Elaeagnus, but trying to narrow down what kind is difficult. The berry pattern doesn't match the few pictures I've been able to find so far, but it definately has the "scales". Hmm.. it should be flowering soon (which I didn't notice last year). So I'll keep a close eye out if I don't have a definate answer before then. Wow.. #13 is a solidago, and #12 is an aster, but I had NO idea there were so many types of each! There are tons of other asters, in a variety of shapes and colors, on the property that I don't have pics. of yet. Not sure about #10... it DID remind me of Oenothera when I first saw it.. I'm gonna look through some more photos. So far: 1. black swallowwort (invasive) 2. 3. 4. 5. Bedstraw; gallium 6. 7. Penstemon digitalis 8. Stout blue-eyed grass 9. Boneset (aster) (solidago) Swamp vervain; verbena hastata Northern bugleweed; lycopus uniflora Jewelweed or Spotted Touch-me-nots; Impatiens capensis Nodding lady's tresses; spiranthes cernua Nodding smartweed; polygonum Devil's beggartick; Bidens frondosa

The OP's question was about a weed management plan. So to create one, you need to know what the environmental conditions are, which is why your state and zone and soil type and sun/shade and moisture conditions are important. You also have to know what your plants are, what their life cycle is and what their needs are. This can help you get rid of plants you don't want (deny them their needs or at least be aware of how they will react based on their needs) and also help you encourage what you do want. Then you have to decide what YOU want and what level of management you want to devote the resources towards. That's why it is very important to know what your weeds are and how they live, because that can help you come up with a management strategy where you can have the greatest results for the least effort. For example, the herbicides that they sell over the counter, for the most part, are in concentrations that only work on emergent or cut vegetation, because then they can be absorbed into the plant. Older vegetation has a more developed "skin"/cuticle and will not be as susceptible. So spring is the time to apply an herbicide. Also, it needs to be applied at a time when it won't get washed right away by rain, and not on a windy day when you are going to be exposed to "blow back." If you don't apply the herbicide properly, it will not only be ineffective, it can also cause unwanted side effects, such as being blown onto vegetation you don't want to kill, for example, and damaging them. To the OP I will say that the English Ivy is not causing the area to become overgrown with poison ivy. The two plants thrive under the same conditions, which is why you are finding them growing together. As I mentioned, I manage an area of white pine trees that was neglected and became overgrown with English ivy. I also have limited resources. I managed with the help of volunteers to get the ivy killed off of the trees, but the hillside is steep so I haven't removed all the ivy. I also have a huge deer browsing problem so until I get that under control, it won't do much good to try and plant and establish anything else on that spot anyway. Whether or not you have deer also needs to go into your management plans and strategies. So as an example of how a management plan might work, for that area, my strategy is to keep the ivy from going back on the trees and large shrubs, and to manage other weeds that are growing amongst the ivy. They are growing there because they too can thrive, deer don't eat them either. My main weed in that area is poison ivy, and I control it because visitors are walking and sitting in the area so I need to keep it off of trails and out from under benches. So I try to eradicate ALL of it so that the remaining plants do not become a source of seed for next year's weeds. That's key in your weed management plan, you have to keep on your weeds because if you let them go, the seeds will spread and you will lose ground. That is also why you will probably just pick a FEW things to attend to since you most likely don't have the time or desire for a complete forest restoration. The other four weeds I focus on are garlic mustard/dame's rocket and Asian honeysuckle, not because they are a problem in that spot, but because I don't want the seeds to spread to other areas where they will become a problem, and thistle, because it is prickly and a prolific seeder. You have to nip your seed sources in the bud. With poison ivy, birds spread the seed from yard to yard and place to place, so you're always going to have a few pop ups, so what you're shooting for is to not let your yard become the seed source. The farther away the seed source is, the less of a problem you will have. Jewelweed does not alter the soil in the same way that say, garlic mustard does, and it grows well in the conditions of your woods, so I wouldn't spend an inordinate amount of time trying to control it, unless I wanted that perfect sea of just one type of groundcover look. I find that boring and so much work considering the size of your area I wouldn't lay awake nights figuring out how to eradicate the jewelweed. As some have mentioned, it's easy enough to pull out so whenever it is in the way, if you pull it out you can keep it down. Any more pulling would be up to you as to time and effort you want to extend. Unfortunately, pull out jewelweed and something else more noxious just might hop in to fill the gap which is why I would ignore most of it, besides the fact that I quite like the plant. I manage very similar areas, and I basically just comb them every couple of weeks for my worst offenders and pull them out. Since I have somewhat of a handle on it, usually is not too difficult. But all it takes is a month or so of neglect and the task becomes more time consuming. The rain and some staff shortages made it difficult for us to get on our weeds this year and we are losing the battle even with the few weeds I have mentioned. At home, my husband does the mowing and string trimming and watering, and then I dead head and weed, for the most part since I know the weeds. He sits on a recliner or a lawn chair and keeps me company while I do my rounds. I have a couple of weed pulling tools to lighten the task like a weed fork, trowel and cultivator. Very rarely I have to use a Roundup spray to get to a weed that would cause too much damage to dig out. I spot spray following all instructions like I mentioned. You have to decide how firm you want to be about establishing and keeping the edge between your lawn and your more wilder forest. I'm pretty lax at home, at work we have defined bed edges. Either will work. Now, as for establishing some native wildflowers for pollinators, with the two aggressive groundcovers that you have (that I can see) the ivy and pachysandra, only the most hardy natives are strong enough to survive under the competition for water and nutrients that those two groundcovers bring to the table, as was mentioned in the literature review I posted. Add deer to the mix, and all bets are off. I don't know if you want to go there or not. From your original post, it sound like not. But if you wanted to dip your toes in the water, I suggested starting with some spots you can see from where you spend your time, and add some color/flowers/scents to the mix. I don't think you will be spending much time out in the forest in the summer with mosquitoes and ticks in the mix. If jewelweed is growing in your woods, it's a wet woods. You discourage mosquitoes by being vigilant and not allowing any standing water, like in a tub, old tire, big puddle, whatever. If you have a natural shallow pond in your woods, then I would just go with it and not go out during "M" hour which is what I do, and using various repellants when outside. You could also install some bat houses, bats really do a good job keeping mosquitoes down. But bat houses have to be installed correctly or all you'll get is squirrels climbing on them and wondering why they can't get in, (ask me how I know). Ticks are a little trickier, since they are carried by deer, and if you have deer, you have my deepest sympathies. That's a whole other post/topic. But here's a link to a pretty good pamphlet from the town of Millis, MA, on woodland managements to battle ticks. http://www.millis.org/Pages/MillisMA_BComm/Boh/Tick%20Management.PDF Of note is the advice to remove groundcover and trim trees on the edge of the forest to let light in. IRONICALLY, this will provide IDEAL conditions for poison ivy to grow, as it like dappled shade. I'm not sure you want to go that whole route, so I would advise just focusing on the trail area, making it wide enough so vegetation isn't hanging over it, and also staying out of there with pets and only go back there myself or with kids with proper tick preventative clothing. I work in tick land on a daily basis, and I take precautions and so far have been ok. Just be aware of how to look for ticks and be vigilant about protecting yourself and also be on the lookout for ones that might get on you if you've been out in the yard working or recreating. Long legged pants in a light, cool material, and a hat are two good things to get. Then somehow seal off the ankle entrance. Socks pulled over the leg openings are the classic solution, but you can get pants that have elastic leg openings too. As for full enjoyment of my woodlot, if I was going to put any energy towards it, I would focus on creating plantings that could be viewed by looking into the woods from areas I might be sitting in outside of the area, or from along the path. Flowers that grow up high enough to see, like Cimicifuga/Snakeroot, or Goat's beard or coral bells, etc. Since your area is wet you might get some plants like royal fern or sensitive fern to grow, they are stunning. Also chelone and bottle gentian, maybe some woodland sunflowers or some buttercups, but again, if you have deer, all bets are off. Stick to daffodils! And maybe bleeding hearts and buttercups as I think they are also toxic to deer. Astilbe is supposed to be OK, but something is eating mine, maybe groundhogs or bunnies. Same with columbine. So learn to love jewelweed! It is actually one of my favorite wildflowers!!