Is it in full sun? What is your soil like? Regularly watered? Mulched? If well watered and fertilized, modern repeat-flowering roses produce a new round of bloom every 6 to 8 weeks. Some are a bit faster than that, and some are slower.

OK here it is: I found it, and I am pasting it here! Good luck with those nasty old olives!! hahahaha!! Unlike most other fruits, olives aren't fit to eat right off the tree. They contain a bitter-tasting and astringent glucoside. Since the glucoside is water soluble, soaking the fruits from four to seven days in water gradually gets rid of the problem. After the bitterness is gone, you soak the olives in brine for three to four days, then in vinegar for a minimum of three days. At this point they're ready to pack into canning jars. Curing Kalamata Olives Kalamata olive curing process From Chris Smith, Developed by Basil Papahronis, Pick olives when their color is red to purple and the texture is still firm. Avoid olives on the ground, unless theyÂve just been knocked there for picking ease. Minimize bruising by collecting olives in buckets containing water and not by knocking them to the ground. Â Rinse and clean olives with fresh water. Discard leaves, stems and any partially eaten (pecked by birds) olives. Also discard any prune-appearing olives (usually the result of dehydration) because they will result in a mushy olive after processing. Â Slit the olives lengthwise to the pit at least three times using a sharp knife or razor edge. While slitting, sort the olives into separate containers according to size and color. Process each of the sorted olives separately to produce a better-appearing final product. Processing can thus be tailored (longer or shorter water-soaking days) according to their respective degree of ripeness. Â Cover the slitted olives with tap water and allow them to soak for four to seven days. Change the water each day at least three times (morning, noon and night). The olive bitterness (a water-soluble glucoside) is removed by extraction and a slow process of glucoside diffusion into the water. The actual number of days required is best determined by tasting the olives after the fourth or fifth day. If the taste is still unpalatable, continue the water soak another day or two. Note: The firmer and greener the olive, the longer the soaking time required. Caution: The olives at this stage are susceptible to spoilage. Keep containers covered and clean and regularly change the water. Â When the bitterness is gone, soak the olives to cover in a 10 percent salt solution (1 pound salt in 1 gallon water). The olives will initially float because of the strong salt solution; they should be stirred at least once a day to work the floaters into the solution. As the olives absorb the salt, theyÂll gradually (in three to four days) cease to float. Since the salt acts as a preservative at this concentration, spoilage is not a risk, but proper sanitation practices should be maintained for maximum flavor quality. Â Drain the salt solution and refill the containers with enough water to just cover the olives. If you want, wash them again at this stage by draining off the first water addition to remove any sediment that may have accumulated in the container. Then just cover with water again. Add vinegar (1 pint for each gallon of olives) and stir well. Choice of vinegar is yours. (Papahronis prefers wine vinegar.) Stir once each day and allow three days minimum soak time. They are now ready for packing. The olives can be allowed to stand for up to seven to eight days before packing. If allowed to stand longer, a mold may form on the surface that can affect appearance and flavor, but it is not toxic. If this should occur, just drain and rinse with fresh water to remove the mold and pack into jars immediately. Â Package the olives by spooning them into jars (Papahronis uses 1-quart Mason jars). Work the olives down into the jars by gentle tapping to produce a more compact fill. Add into each jar the following: 1 heaping teaspoon salt, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon oregano, 1/4 cup fresh wine vinegar, other spices of your choosing, 1/4 cup virgin olive oil, and water to complete filling to the top. (Note: Papahronis doesnÂt use garlic because it overpowers the natural olive flavors.) The vinegar-water mixture used for soaking the olives is drained; not used for the final packaging. Â Seal the jars and shake well to mix all the ingredients. Â Label and date for ease of identification. Â Store in a dark place for two to three weeks. The olives are ready to eat at any time after the salt soak stage, but the flavor improves with age up to three to four months before leveling out. Â Shelf-life of the packaged olives can be anywhere from two to three years. Keeping them longer is not recommended. Â After opening each jar, it may be refrigerated or kept ambient, depending on how long it will take to finish eating the remainder. Refrigerate if longer than two to three weeks.

I left somethings in the nightstand drawer when my sister and I were in Las Vegas this past summer, when my Mom passed away. It was mostly costume jewlery but they called my sister in Canada to let her know. The room was in her name. The items were taken to the security area in the casino and she had to fax an ok for the security people to release it to one of my parents neighbors. They were kind enough to offer to go and pick it up for me..... and I got it from them on my next trip out there. I think after a few years it might be too late though. I'm surprised the hotel management didn't call you if they found it..... but it might not have been turned in. I was lucky.

Hi. It's nice to see people responded to my post over a year later lol. Fortunately I have a good update. For reference, I live in Vacaville which is roughly halfway between Sacramento and San Francisco. I bought and drove home 7 Frans Fontaine hornbeams from Medford Oregon in July 2015 and planted them immediately. They were about 1" caliper and roughly 10-12 feet tall (bare root). Some of the tops were windblown from the drive home and one of the trees didn't survive shortly after planting. After a year in the ground, I have one straggler that I hope will recover but the other five are doing great. I plan on giving the straggler one more season to come back before I replace it. I planted them just under 7 feet apart on center and about 2 1/2 feet from the fence. So far the five that thrived are doing great. A few notes. 1. We have about 25 days a year over 100F. A few tips of some of the leaves burn, but not enough to be a distraction or harm the tree. I was worried that the hot Summers would negatively affect the tree, but so far that doesn't seem to be the case. 2. They've only been through one winter here so far, but they lost their leaves around November and they came back again in March - about the same schedule as all the other trees around here. 3. They've grown about a foot in the first year I planted them and roughly doubled in width. I hope to see them grow 2-3 feet a year starting next year now that they're nearly fully established. They're 3-4 feet wide. Some branches are just starting to hit the fence, but since they grow somewhat upwards it's so far not a problem. 4. I haven't done any pruning yet, but I plan on taking off the bottom 2 feet of branches this winter. Any suggestions if I should cut the tops off? Ultimately I want them to get at least 30 feet high and 8 feet wide. 5. Overall I'm pleased with the trees. Low maintenance (I water once every 2 weeks and they'll go on timers next year) and nice looking. I just need to get back up to Oregon to get another one (or two) where I have a gap.