Uh-oh for me, then. Although I certainly know better, I bought some mystery spirea babies earlier this year, because they were so darn cute, I loved the blue-green foliage, and I was so desperate to fill in some of the acres of mulch left by the previous homeowner. I was hoping that they'd turn out to be a shorter variety. But they look just like the photo, only they are just 12" tall. I wonder how soon I'll have to relocate them?

Could be a Purple leaf plum Prunus cerasifera. Not 100% sure. Jen

Thanks, everyone. Carol, yes, I see that you commented based on my incomplete description. Good guess. NHBabs and macranthos, I'm sure you nailed it. There used to be a red oak close by and there are red oak (Q. rubra) everywhere and seedlings take root from the many acorns. I might have put a bit of round-up on some of the obstinate wild blackberry canes, and that could account for the damaged red oak. I'm going to yank it soon along with some other unwanted volunteers. Ditto the Vinca minor that I want to eradicate. I think I will mechanically remove things. Thanks again. I appreciate your time and talent. This forum is amazing.

Ideally one would move established plantings when they are dormant or just emerging. The time depends on the particular plant, and experts recommend FALL. Right now is a bad time to move daffodils. If they haven't already come up they will soon. Their roots are growing even if the tops haven't emerged. Nonetheless, if they can't stay where they are, it would be better to move them soonest. Before digging up any plant have a new site prepared. While dormant bulbs can be popped into any hole and covered over, already growing bulbs need more space. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the existing bed and about 6" deep. Now dig up the bulbs you want to move being careful not to damage them with the spade. Discard any that get badly damaged. Keep the bulb clumps together and set them in the new planting hole, spreading any roots. Replace the soil over the bulbs and gently tamp it, then water in well. Use the same general directions in transplanting hostas. The size and depth of the new planting hole will be different, of course. Transplanting established broadleaf shrubs requires removing at least 1/3 of the existing top growth. It is best if the plant is still dormant. If the barberry is a deciduous species, remove 1/3 of the oldest branches to ground level. If it is an evergreen species, remove 1/3 of the overall growth. Now, this is the general guide to pruning barberry, but because you will lose some roots during digging you may need to remove 1/2 or more of existing growth to make up for the root loss. Barberry root systems are described as shallow but wide. You need to start the dig far enough away from the base to preserve feeder roots, then use shovels to cut deeper roots beneath the plant until you can pry it up with some soil, place it on a tarp and drag it to it's new site. Considering that many barberry species get quite large it may well be easier to just chop it down and remove the stump. All transplanted shrubs of any size will need extra care over the following year. Water whenever a dry spell occurs. Watch for insect damage and disease, because a transplanted shrub has been stressed and more likely to be subject to further damage.