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Azaleas dying - water mold / root rot?

9 years ago

My neighbors' landscaper planted azaleas ('Delaware Valley') in their back yard last fall. Most of them were dead or dying in spring, so they were replaced. The new ones are also in various states of decline.

The area is being watered with their sprinkler system. It's under some large trees (hickory, I think) with a fairly open canopy. The guy had told them they need to water more, but I stuck my finger in the soil (before we had a drenching rain last week!) and it was moist beginning right at the surface. The soil is pretty heavy too.

In the picture I'm posting, some leaves are totally limp but clinging, some look OK, and of course some have already dropped. On other shrubs there are branches with leaves on the outside and a huge brown area in the middle.

From what I've Googled, these are prone to root rot, and pecifically to Phytophthora. Root rot was the first thing that came to mind when I saw them too.

But if I could get a couple of your expert opinions, they'd appreciate it and I would too. Thanks!

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Comments (7)

Ruth_MI
Original Author
9 years ago
Oops - realized after I posted this that it's not a hickory in the picture. I think it's a swamp white oak. I know he has large hickory trees close by though.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
ruth.. in my adrian MI ... we went thru two drought this summer ...

its questionable whether lawn watering is sufficient thru such ... though you were spot on.. on testing.. but you tested only once ...

winter was severe.. as you know.. i wonder where the new stock came from ...

i wouldnt be jumping to disease.. this time of season ... and would find out.. how they deal with winter ...

i would insure... moist soil late into fall ... BUT NOT FREEZE THE ROOTS INTO AN ICE CUBE ... as days get cold ... water usually isnt necessary .. but testing in late oct.. sure wont hurt ... and with the 2.5 inches i had the other day.. i doubt my sand will dry out ... but i will test later ...

i dont know if this one is evergreen or deciduous ... interior leaf loss is consistent with transplant and poor watering on evergreen ...

and who cares what leaves look like.. this time of year.. on plants they fall off of ....

mulch surely woudnt hurt a transplant ...

ken
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You seem to have the problem well diagnosed. However, be aware that two very different problems can exhibit the same symptoms. If the root balls were dry when planted and not opened up, the root ball will shed moisture even under these wet conditions. In this case the symptoms are the same. However, if dry, they can recover if dug up and properly planted. The most likely scenario is that the wet conditions are killing them. Once infected with Phytophthora, there is virtually no hope of saving them. First they should have only been watered when the soil was getting dry. Second, in heavy soils they should be planted in raised beds.
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If all the bottoms of the stems are like that, it is root rot. Your only option then would be to take cuttings of healthy upper stems that are still green inside, before rot spreads up the stem. And it appears you have some healthy stems from the photo. Overwatering in a peaty mix like that is death to the plant. Also I would use an unglazed clay pot, which will dry out the medium more quickly. If you use an organic mix like that, even with added perlite, I would use a smaller pot. If you do take cuttings, let the cut ends heal over before potting, and then, do not water until you see roots. No roots, no water. Christopher
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NHBabs z4b-5a NH
9 years ago
Try posting this in the Rhododendron and azalea forum. There are some folks there quite experienced and knowledgeable with rhodies and azaleas and their issues.
Ruth_MI
Original Author
9 years ago
nhbabs - Thanks for the suggestion...I'll post this over there.

Ken - it doesn't look like end-of-season stress to me, but will keep an open mind. They've been like this for weeks, and the wilted but clinging foliage (which was very soft and limp) was strange.
emerogork
9 years ago
If the leaves are turning yellow then it is too much water. Have you checked the pH? Too high will prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. You can use foliar feeding by a hose end sprayer and acid fertilizer. This will help the leaves to absorb nutrients while the roots are recuperating.

Wet at the surface may not be a good indicator. Dig down a foot to see if the moisture layer stops and dry starts.
Ruth_MI
Original Author
9 years ago
There were no yellow leaves. We haven't checked the pH. After a suggestion on the Azalea forum, I'd hoped to dig one up this weekend to check the rootball, but didn't get over there. Thanks for the additional suggestions.
User
9 years ago
Root rot.
Definately.
Do you see where it starts browining from the bottom of the shrub? and it works its way up inside of the shrub?
Its dying.
The shrub has to be planted up on a mound of soil and then mulched with pine bark mulch.
The shrub must be dug up, the soil dug up farther awsay from the tree, and mound it up on the soil.
Then pour a whole bag of pine bark mulch around the mound.
That is if the shrub isn't going to die anyway from the rot.
Its worth a try.

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