Well, there are different types and grades of clear plastic sheeting, depending upon what you want to use it for, what you want to spend, and how long you want it to hold up. I wouldn't use the very cheap clear plastic such as dropcloths are made of -- this stuff is extremely thin, usually 0.3 mils, essentially glorified Saranwrap, and it will shred in a matter of days. Visqueen type sheet polyethelene of either 4.0 or 6.0 mils would be a lot better. This stuff costs about $13 for a 10 x 25 foot roll. Any hardware store will have this. This stuff is NOT UV light stabilized, so it will break down with exposure to sunlight, but it will last at least three or four months (during the summer when UV levels are highest) to about 6 to 9 months during the fall/winter when UV light levels are low. Finally, if you want something that will last up to 6 or 8 years, there are many brands of greenhouse polyethelene out there. The difference between this and the type sold in the hardware stores is that the greenhouse plastic IS stabilized against ultraviolet light, and it also often is treated with compounds to make water run off, etc., to maintain clarity. For a coldframe, the regular hardware store type plastic sheeting would work just fine, unless you don't mind paying more for the greenhouse poly sheeting, or unless you don't want to have to change the plastic every year. Hope this helps.

The "sail effect" from the wind will be too much for a few grommets and bungee cords. Gaps will be caused by the plastic flapping and flexing, negating the potential benefit of the cold frame. FWIW, here's what I would recommend when using a flimsy material. 1) Use the fabric linked below. It's like iron, and won't tear easily...and diffuses light nicely. 2) Add additional 2x2 purlins. One across the base of the unit (looks like about a foot off the ground). It's low enough that you can reach over it easily. The other purlin should go at the angle just ahead of the PVC trellis. The fabric will be permanently attached to the sections, high and low, created by the additional pieces. This also has the benefit of reducing the span the fabric will hang unsupported. 3) Drive bolts through the pieces marked "3 5-5/8"" from the backside, so that the threads are exposed on the front/top. Do the same on the bottom purlin I just described above, about a foot off the ground. Drill matching holes through 1x2s cut to fit. 4) Cut and fit the fabric permanently to the ends, bottom panels, and top panels. Industrial staples and a staple gun work fine -- use a hammer to drive the staples in as far as possible. Attach the top end of the "roll-uppable" flap permanently to the top purlin (underneath the fabric for the top panel, so that water will drain off properly), and poke the sides and bottom over the exposed bolt threads. (On the bottom end of the fabric you can staple to a 2x2 to assist in rolling.) Lay the 1x2s over the holes on top of the fabric, and spin on wing nuts. If high winds are expected, leave enough extra material along the sides and bottom so that you can "loosely" staple the flap along the sides and bottom for additional strength. A flat-head screwdriver will easily back out the staples afterwards. If the fabric is allowed to flap and tug, I imagine it would be possible to rip it out of the attachments along the sides and bottom. As I see it, controlling your daytime temps is going to be an issue. You could install an exhaust fan on one end, and a vent on the other, I suppose, but perhaps that's more effort than you want to tinker with. You'll have to be vigilant about rolling open the front each day. -Bruce Here is a link that might be useful: 5.2 ounce fabric at FarmTek

Criss Cross Apple Sauce... Make sure you run a straight edge across all the wall studs and look for bows. These old studs can be poker straight like you mentioned but it only takes one to be proud to make a tile install tricky. We use a hand power planner to knock down the high spots and various wood shims to true up others. In stall blocking for future grab bars and to further stiffen the wall. We like to add blocking as well along the tub deck and often the tub has not been properly secured. Fix all and "Criss Cross Apple Sauce". Check again after boarding and again after taping the seams. A thinset scratch coat can take away feathered edges and fine tune slight "Issues". Those old 2"x6"'s of yours make nice tables. I have a collection from my homes renovation that are seasoning for some custom built ins down the road. These old 2"x4"'s, 2"x6"'s and 1"x stock where used to form my original 1965 North Vancouver home concrete foundation. They where strip after pouring the cement and used through out my home's construction including the roof. Me and the boys stripped the roof and cut the new forms out of the old roof. Lowered, braced and once again with the cement. We stripped them and will now make future grade cabinets out of them. The old growth lumber has such great grain and we have made many projects from our demo waste at work. Can't wait to see pictures - please post some progress work... Good Luck

I am very sorry if I made you feel stomped-on - I didn't really mean to. I must have been tired, but that's still not a good excuse. :-( (Man, it's embarrassing to be compared to the vultures on on Rate My Space. Ow. I am rebuked.) Yes, I did mean that I suggest not doing anything with the walls except hanging some properly scaled artworks on them. (And maybe painting them a different color, but that's just me. LOL) Shopping for art is so much fun too! I think once you do that, bringing in some color and "oomph", you will feel differently about the room as a whole. At least wait to make these kinds of permanent, harder-to-reverse changes while you are refining your style and plans for the room and your other "stuff", anyway, as Bronwynsmom says. And after all, you're going to need artwork anyway even if you do do this molding job, so why not look for something you love that can serve as an inspiration piece for the rest of the room? You do not have to do everything at once, although I know all too well the desire to just get it over with. :-) I have made expensive mistakes before when trying to rush things together without having an overall "vision", and if that can save someone else from throwing their hard-earned money away it's not quite so much of a waste... Hmm, this might help. Over on the kitchen forum they have something called "The Sweeby Test". This page I've linked has her (I think Sweeby's a her) original post on the subject of writing a "Mission Statement" for a room the same way you would if you were starting a business or a charity. Her post is about choosing things for kitchens, but I think it applies to every room in the house. I have found it VERY helpful.