Hi, Beth. I don't have the variegated jades you are looking for, but I checked your want list and I have low sedums I would trade for the trailing jade. I have been looking for this plant. I have dragon's blood, blue spruce, and one that is green and turns purple in the winter or when it gets lots of sun. I can send pictures if you like. Please let me know. Kathie

I had orangish colored spots on the underside of two leaves as well as the leaf stalks on the Melanzana fig trees two weeks ago. I removed the leaves and sprayed the tree down with Safer fungicide. I haven't seen any reoccurences of spots on the remaining leaves and the leaf stalks have returned to a more normal color. I had the same issues last year with the same tree. I didn't treat it in time and the tree defoliated. The tree defoliated later in the year during my absence and its possible it did for the same reason. Its really the only tree I have that has had a rust issue. I'm wondering if some varieties are more susceptible to it than others. I have read in one of the Texas A&M documents a preventative spraying of copper is recommeded. The first spraying being when the first leaves reach full size and a follow up spraying in 3-4 weeks. Also, if its a rainy year, a third spraying. That seems like a bit of overkill, but I guess if you really wanted to do it, it couldn't hurt. ~james

If you have just transplanted them, the most likely problem is transplant shock, which they will usually come out of in a day or three. Larger plants can take longer to come out of it. If a the transplant was done more than a few days ago, there probably is something else, but to know what the issue is, we'd really have to have more information. Any changes other than transplanting? Are they in the same growing medium as before? Did you change nutrients mix/ratio/? (I am assuming that since you are growing in rock wool, you are growing hydroponically.) Can you post pictures? If you are growning hydroponically, this may not be the appropriate forum to ask your questions about the wilting issue, it could be a "normal" issue for hydroponics transplants, so you may want to visit that forum (link below) since most of us in the tomato growing forum don't have hydroponics experience. I suggest searching their forum before asking, if it is a common issue, the question has probably been asked and answered before. The more information you can give us, in either forum, the better the chances that someone can give you an accurate diagnosis. Here is a link that might be useful: Hydroponics Forum

There are many reasons why this could happen, but here are the usual suspects: 1. Genetics: Many Phals with pink, purple or red toned flowers have red/purple tinted leaves. Also many Doritaenopsis (Doritis x Phalaenopsis, abbreviated as Dtps) plant have tinted leaves regardless of bloom color, this is because Doritis pulcherrima has the purple undersides on its leaves and passes this trait easily.. This is due to the color pigment in the plant called anthocyanin. This pigment can build up in the leaves or may just be a normal part of the plants coloring. As the leaf ages, it may become more red in color. This coloring is often most notable on the undersides of leaves, the leaf edges or margins, and the flower spike may appear to be a greenish purple in color. This coloring can be intensified by sunlight as will be explained below. Most plants with this leaf coloring have very dark green leaves, and may be more prone to leaf burn. But many plants naturally have this coloring in their leaves and it is not indicative of a problem with the plant. It is not know whether this is some sort of dominant trait (leaf color) in Phalaenopsis, but due to its propensity it wouldnt be surprising. Many mottled leaf Phals also have this reddish hue on the leaf undersides, examples of these species being: lindenii, schillerinan and stuartiana. 2. Sunlight: Some Phals, when exposed to high levels of light, may get a red/purple ring around the leaves. This is often a sign that the plant is receiving a very high amount of light, which eventually, may lead to leaf burn and cellular damage. The way to stop it is to reduce the amount of light the plant receives. This should be done in a gradual fashion, just as increasing light should be done. A slight increase can stop this from leading to leaf burn. A reddish purple line, which does not develop into leaf burn, is fine and should be regarded as the plants upper light register. Some Phals when getting too little light may have a severe darkening of the leaves, which will lead to them appearing to have a red/purple cast. In this case light should be gradually increased over a period of weeks so as to protect from leaf burn. Limey green leafed Phals often do not develop the red/purple line, but instead may develop a yellow/white line around the leaves when exposed to very high light levels, and this should be treated the same way as the red line. The main difference is when limey green leaved Phals get less than adequate light their leaves will darken to a dark Kelly green, and not take on the reddish hue. This may seem confusing, but experimenting with light, and understanding your plants genetic heritage can help you better understand what is going on. If the plant has red, pink or purple flowers it is pretty much a given that the leaves are darker and purple on the undersides, but many whites, sunsets, art shades, spotted, and yellow Phals also have this characteristic. With increased breeding and the wide selection of hybrids available it is no surprise that it is getting more difficult to determine if the coloring is genetic or not. If your plant goes through a sudden color change in the leaves it is best to ride on the side of caution and pull it back from its light source. Occasionally the red leaves will follow a softening and wilting of the leaves. This is because the plant is ill or infected with insects, which is slowing down its growth. You should then inspect for insects, crown rot, root rot or some other issue such as a sudden drop (freeze) in temperature or a sudden increase (20 deg) in temperature. All can cause leaf changes to which coloration changes may be a secondary characteristic of the problem. Provided by Adrianna Bast