The weather looks good for Northern VA for the next 12 days so you could probably get some more seed to germinate. It is late to be seeding now. You put down more seed than recommended so one problem you will prohably have is that certain areas have too much seed. The overseeding rate is 4-5 lb per 1000 square feet. You should have used 11-13.5 lb. If you had so much dead grass that it was more like a new lawn than an overseeding, you could have used more seed (rate for new lawns is 8-10 lb per K). You exceeded the heavy side of the new lawn rate. So I hesitate to recommend more seed. If certain areas bother you with bareness, you could add a little more seed. Or you could just leave it alone and see what happens. As the grass matures it will tiller and fill in. What is just a skinny little blade now will become a clump later (if it has space). I expect your problems will be with the new grass that is too thick.

You should be able to prune all the way down as low as you want to. As long as there is at least one branch below the prune, or buds. That's pretty much true for tree-like plant, adenium or otherwise. Safest if you still have at least one growing branch below the cut to keep everything active. Even it could be removed later if you add grafts that take or other buds awaken. Keep the wound dry and add cinnamon or sulfur like you mentioned, or seal it with super glue (which makes a super clean seal). I like to spray with alcohol first and keep everything as sterile as possible, including my knife and my hands. The cut off discards can also be rooted, or some of it used as grafting material on this plant or others. I'm a big fan of experimenting and not being afraid, nor treating a plant like it's precious if I'm not happy with it or if I have several more like it. So I may be more bold and daring than some here. There's also a ton of reading material online for pruning and training adeniums. Research is your friend. Having something in mind for an end goal of what you want this plant to look like in the coming years is also helpful to guide your training.

Likely Ilex cornuta 'Dwarf Burford' holly. Common in Texas. Like a typical holly it can be sheared way back. I would have done any heavy pruning or shearing in late Winter or early Spring though. So you missed the window on that for now, I suspect. It's a perfectly suitable, basically issue-free, hedging shrub for North Texas -- takes heat and drought. Doesn't grow too terribly fast and is easily trimmed. It's beautifully evergreen and can put on a nice berry display in fall and winter. I'd definitely keep it, so don't let anyone talk you into removal!! Unless, for some reason it just doesn't fit into your overall landscape vision. You could take a hedgetrimmer to it now and trim it back a few inches, just to tidy it up. But next late-winter or early spring (well before new growth begins) you can cut it way back to wherever you like - 1 foot or 2 or 3! Do not do it in stages. It will come back super densely over the growing season. Then prune again mid-summer to tidy up the vigorous shoots. It will probably settle down to growing 4 to 6 inches year or so. It will be a while before the height is a problem. I trim mine only once a year and not all that much at a time. Maybe someone in Texas has more experience with timing and you have a long enough and wet enough (?) growing season that it could be done now, but I suspect it's too late for this year. And while you're at it, I'd get rid of the weedy trees coming up in the hedge (pull or dig out).

Kali, I'm talking about hybrid teas here, the most intensively pruned class of roses. Always prune disease/damaged growth back to healthy growth. After spring pruning is finished for a mature hybrid tea, I like to have no more than 6 basal canes, maximum, with only 1-2 laterals each, even no laterals per basal cane is good. Older basals will have a good lateral or two. A young basal usually has no laterals down in the low, retained growth zone in its second growing year. All highest up laterals you decide to leave on the basals should be last year's, young growth, and should be at least as thick as a pencil. Young, last year produced basal canes can be as thick as a broomstick on some husky bushes. Nothing on a mature bush is left higher than 14" from the ground, be it the end of a young basal or a retained lateral. With winter die back, lower adjustments often need to be made. In other words, on a mature bush hybrid tea, you could cut the bush back to 14" from the ground without even thinking, then go through and do the fine tuning.....gets a lot of material out of the way so you can better see what to do next. Always keep symmetry of the bush a goal. Some basals will be 3-4 years old, a couple will be one year old basal canes. The young canes will typically have rich green color. Always retain your youngest canes given a choice. Older basals lose vigor as they age, and get progressively gray/brown, and barky. All 5 year old or older basal canes are removed to the crown. Their productive life is over. You can easily tell an old basal by its great diameter, but it has the bush's thinnest laterals. It is pooping out. It is no longer an asset to the bush. We prune to shape for the best growth (air circulation, crossing canes, symmetry, etc.), and best flower production. The vigor of a young bush has a lot to do with how heavily it is pruned during its first years. Generally, I like to leave more growth, which equals more leaves. Leaves are a rose bush's mouth. It cannot feed=grow if it has few mouths working to build up the bush. Less vigorous young bushes, leave more growth so more leaves can work to build up the bush. More vigorous young bushes may need to be held back=less eating leaves to keep the bush more restrained, and from getting out of control. None of my pruning principles apply strictly to an immature bush during its establishment years. My pruning ideas are perameters to keep in mind and employ more adherently every following year so that as a mature bush it is well structured and easy to manage. Every class and variety within its class has slightly different pruning requirements. The hybrid teas have the most regimented pruning program. Shrubs have the least regimented pruning directives. This is my approach to pruning. It works for me. I hope I answered your question. Moses