Tina, I don't have my tree/shrub book in front of me(Pirrone) - I keep it at the library. But I want to say that your shrub is a Purple Sand Cherry and the insect that chews the holes is a wasp. I treat trees and shrubs and do not really have control over this problem. I also see it on Newport Plum - similar tree. It really is more of a cosmetic problem and will not kill the shrub like the borers that it OFTEN gets. A similar shrub I recommend as a replacement for Sand Cherries is a Diablo Ninebark - so far NO insects or diseases. So I really wouldn't worry about it- your shrub should be fine.

Kellycrash - The fact that they were planted last fall is important. Shrubs take some time to grow roots, and depending on how soon before the soil froze they were planted, they may have gone into the winter without enough roots to have uptaken enough water to keep them happy. One of the nice things about Rhodies is that they have dormant buds on the stems which will sprout if the branches above them have died. So I wouldn't give up on these plants. I'd leave them until rhodies in your area are putting out new leaves (after bloom) and then prune back branches that when the bark is scratched, there is no green in the under bark. You still appear to have a fair number of leaves that have survived. The boxwoods' damage also look like desiccation, but isn't as much as the rhododendrons. I'd say that all your plants will look considerably better in a few months, but if not, you can always decide later on to replace them.

Start your search for why with a good, reliable soil test. Contact you local office of the University of Massachussets USDA Cooperative Extension Service to have a base nutrient load and soil pH level test done. Then dig in with these simple soil tests to see what you have; 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Pieris need the same soils and growing conditions as the Rhododenron family, a soil well endowed with organic matter that is evenly moist but well drained and has a lower than normal soil pH, in partial shade. The more sun exposure they have the more soil moisture they need. Here is a link that might be useful: UMASS CES

melissa 1, the shrub, Viburnum?, looks like it is suffering from a watering and/or disease problem. The tipping can be due to too much or too little water. You know how much and how often it has been watered, therefore you can adjust the program. If the condition occured suddenly and evenly, you might have a disease, especially if it has not progressed much further. Cercospora is a possibility although the pattern is very strange. Moreover, the youngest leaves seem to be unaffected so I believe the plant may have been subjected to a brief exposure to an adverse condition. Sunburn is a possibility especialy if some shade was removed eg. the pruning or removal of a shade tree or removal of a fence. Perhaps you can check with the previous owner but I do not think that you will lose the shrub(s).