Rosa rugosa is deciduous. Depending on weather, some years the fall foliage is quite beautiful against the rose's hips. However, if you're planting area is really only 1' deep...you should not plant Rosa rugosa. They are a suckering shrub & grow quite large/bushy. You would need a planting area in the 6-8' deep range to adequately provide for a mature rugosa hedge (10 years).

With only 1' of space to work with...I'm stumped for suggestions other than Ilex 'Sky Pencil' which is evergreen & should work reasonably well in the tight space. They are, however, neither fast growing nor inexpensive & you would require a lot of them to cover 100'.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ilex 'Sky Pencil'

With only 1' of space you pretty much are limited to vines. English Ivy is evergreen, but I hate to recommend it to anyone, its such an invasive thug.

Native clematis aka virgin's bower or old man's whiskers (clematis virginiana)will grow in shade. It grows quickly and has a lot of fluffy seed heads to provide some screening in winter. One plant will spread at least 10ft wide in two years. Virgina creeper will also grow in shade as does dutchman's pipe, but they won't provide much winter cover.

Here is a link that might be useful: Virgins bower

Research the narrow growing yews.

Last year during an extended drought period, I planted a row of two yews and a tree form crape myrtle with that drifting group replanted in an alternating pattern over a narrow 60 foot long area which runs in the space between a chain link fence and a driveway. I do not remember the cultivar name of the Yews, but they are suppossed to grow much more narrow than even the Hick's or the Plum yews grow. We kept them watered regularly and they are still surviving.

These yews are evergreens, which are supposed to grow 10 to 12 feet tall, but can be pruned shorter and spread only about a foot or so. Some are in shade and some are in more sun. The Crape Myrtles that are planted amid them will eventually provide for the yews almost constant shade during the Crape myrtle's growing season. The Yews will also receive quite a bit of part-sun in the winter when the tree form Crape myrtles are dormant.

The bed is currently mulched with shredded cedar mulch, and is gradually being fill in with flowering ground cover shrubs that should grow at the feet of the Yews and Cm's along with filling in the area of the currently mulched bed.

at the end of the chain link fence and still along the driveway I planted an ornamental and narrow growing, pink blooming, Corinthian Peach tree. At its feet I planted some wave patunias on the north side, a dwarf spirea on the south and so for two Dwarf Yaupon holly on the east side of the the tree.

Later on I will extend the bed along the driveway and plant a Black Tupelo tree about 20 feet south of the ornamental peach. Since that tree will be in the front yard area I will be planting the tree on the property line along that narrow side of the driveway, and as it grows and spreads, I plan to keep it pruned up to provide enough space under the canopy for pedestrians and traffic flow on the street which is about 15 feet further south running along the front yard curbing.

As of now I have not planned anything further to be planted on that side of the driveway between the ornamental peach and the Black gum, Tupelo tree. Over time though I might change my mind.

Honeysuckle alongside the driveway? I was going to suggest ligustrum for the rest, but it doesn't grow as fast in the shade.

If you are ordering from an online company, be sure to check ratings and comments on Garden Watch Dog.

Fast growing, shade tolerant screening shrubs/trees are hard to come by. You may have to consider removing some of the existing trees or limbing them up to bring in more light (even though removing trees seems like it is the last thing you want to do).

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Watch dog