Hi Greg, No, just the back yard, and I could hardly be more pleased with it. What a difference! Far and away the most successful seeding I have ever done, all thanks to this forum. I would do the same again in the front yard this year, but there is just too much shade for KBG. But that's OK, I think fine fescue can be very nice if it doesn't get too much traffic. I'm reluctant to even say this because it probably sounds preposterous, but I just noticed some Poa actually PUTTING UP SEEDHEADS today in a relatively shady area. Very, very few, but they were unmistakable. That said, I have some brown spots in the sunnier area of the lawn where Poa was in the spring, so I am hoping those spots are the Poa cooking. Paul

My neighbors just did this. They tore down an existing home and garage under 3000sf. I noticed they did make cuts and dig some new footings through some of the old foundation. Then they put the bracings for the new over 5000 sf foundation and indeed poured over. They only removed several smaller areas such as patios and the old garage floor, otherwise poured over existing. So, I believe it is possible. I was shocked they completely tore down the old. But they claimed the cost of the tear down was made up by the ease of building completely new rather then tying into the old. And all systems are brand new.

Money is Money, Change is Change, But what sticks to the Bee is what makes the Honey. In other words they can make more doing an over lay. What ever fault a slab has will always be there. If it moved,cracked,split the same thing will happen to creet placed over it. X 100 going down hill X another 100 with wood inlays. So say there is nothing wrong with the existing creet,Nothing at all. It stll moves with the seasons like everything else solid like that exposed to the weather/sun. To get a fignting chance the Contractor would have to>>> Drill in 1/2 '' rebar into existing, lay a level of sand over the slab,Use a footing mix and tamp the dickens out of, hope for the best and get paid right after the pour. Or just form up and pour the thing and still get paid the second it done. J.

The cost of a PROPERLY laid micro-topping that is then polished/ground to a high-level finish will depend on whether or not the current slab has an existing/functional moisture barrier. Some of the SUPER HIGH END microtoppings that are DESIGNED to be polished (no epoxy coating) to a super-dense finish, are very expensive. They can take close to 2 weeks to grind down the existing slab, then put down a moisture barrier (spray-in-place x 2 coats), then primed, then the micro-topping is put in and then all the grinding to get a closed-pore floor that is almost impervious to stains and etching (almost...but not quite). And a professional concrete flooring specialist isn't cheap. The level of "polish" will determine your costs. For a DIY level finish = $5/sf (which stains and etches and takes ++maintenance and ++ polish/wax). A medium grade finish (professional level) WITHOUT the microtopping = $7-$10/sf. A high-end (almost bullet proof finish) which includes the microtopping = $15 - $20/sf. And then the actual costs will depend on your location and the ease of access to all of the products/professionals you need. If you are rural without access to a large city, then the cost is going to go up. If you are in an urban location with LOW wages, then you are set for the lower range that I've listed. If you are in an EXPENSIVE urban location (think NYC) then you are in for the HIGHEST range I've listed. But until you decide which type of FINISH you are after, we can't help much more than that.