I don't know where you read/heard that the Three Rivers flagstone will leach iron, but it isn't an issue in the middle of a garden as a path, and it would be my first choice as the colors really pop, don't waste your time sealing it, just hose it off from time to time. I also wonder if you really need to pay the premium for a tumbled flagstone, the raw Three Rivers flagstone is cheaper and just as nice. In California USDA zone 9 locations, an inch or two of sand is all that is necessary for a leveling base of flagstone used as a stepping stone pathway. If you have clay loam based soil that is too soft, you may have a drainage problem needing correcting, or are just overwatering the area. A clay loam soil is only too soft and subject to compaction after significant rains,(and this is really only an issue for planted areas, where you want to avoid soil compaction when the soil is wet, so you maintain good oxygen exchange and soil texture for plant roots). Even in the middle of winter after heavy rains, a clay soil is fully capable of supporting the weight of flagstone pavers without problems of movement, but the sand base will help make them more stable. Weed fabric below a base material is really only appropriate/necessary when you are wanting a solid area of flagstone paving and want to reduce weed growth at the joints; when laying out more widely spaced flagstone as a path, I'd think you would want some low ground cover between the flagstones. If you don't, then use the weed fabric and mulch with gravel or decomposed granite between flagstone pavers. If you are trying to lay flagstone stepping stones on a slope, there is considerably more attention to a stable base necessary, and I'd suggest you get professional help to install it for better results. I'd also suggest you go to your local library or buy one of the Sunset or Ortho gardening books that address landscaping and dry laid flagstone paving, they both cover all the issues you will likely face in your installation, and are generally a more reliable source of information than asking questions on the internet. If you are really interested in the best methods for installing a lower water use garden using California natives, you should also do some reading up on issues of soil drainage, best time of year for planting, how and when to water, importance of mulching, etc., as there are better ways to do this to save time, money and water.

The cars will shatter the flagstones. If it were just foot traffic, laying them loose in gravel works well.

Hi, I just wanted to let those interested know what tips I have learned in designing/building stone block edging around my entire house with an integral flagstone patio. I didn't want colored concrete blocks or rubber edging. I decided on Minnesota Kasota (limestone) natural stone (sized) blocks & 2" flagstone sheets. I contacted a quarry and showed him my design I made on graph paper. He walked around and measured the square footage required to make an entire 8" (two 4" blocks high) curved garden wall above ground, 4-5 feet from my house (except in back of house for the wrap around above grade flagstone patio) that I will backfill with blackdirt, weed barrier, and 3 " of decorative stone or mulch on top. Getting back to the purchase of my stone, I went direct through the quarry and avoided the middle man. I was able to get wholesale price with discount and reduced shipping charge. The order was for 19 tons of tumbled stone retaining blocks (sized 4" thick x 8" wide X radom lengths)and 2" flagstone. I needed about 6000 linear feet of block. I started out by buying 1.5" pvc pipe with couplers to make nice uniform curves/semicircles around my house held by stakes, then spray painted lines around for the block following the natural grade of my yard. (This method worked much better than garden hose). I rented a trencher with a 4" block blade and followed the line around three times so I had a nice trench 12" wide X 4" deep. I shoveled out the dirt and cut landscape fabric in the base. I then put in compactable gravel that I hand tamped 1" below the sod. I then started setting blocks in the trench and found just the right lengths/ slightly angled pieces I needed in the pallets of stone blocks. I then started on the second layer overlapping the joints by 5" inches or so. After the second layer was on, I removed the top layer and placed them on the ground facing up. I then brushed /swept the surfaces then applied block glue to each one and put them back. One area by my garage needed to go up 5 feet of block, so I just kept stacking/gluing blocks except I moved in each row 3/4" above previous row. Now for the raised flagstone patio. Now that I had a nice curved block wall 8" high, I filled/raked 4" high compactable gravel inside, rented a compacter and went over it 4 times. I strung lines across the top of the 8" high block and measured down the thickness of the flagstone (2"-3/8" for sand compaction) and layed long lengths of old 1.5" waterpipes on top the gravel surface and shimmed the pipe up with wood up to where the bottom surface of the flagstone should be. I then shoveled in course washed sand on top of the gravel/pipes and using a long 2x4 resting on top of the pipes to screed the sand flat. Now I started laying flagstone. The flagstone was in big square sheets, so I tipped them onto the ground, and if they didn't break, I took a splitting axe and hit in the middle several times until it broke into smaller pieces that were still at least 2-3 feet in size. Take on piece at a time and lay it onto the sand, then take each matching piece and lay adjacent leaving a 1.5" gap for motar or sand. Continue this process like a jigsaw puzzle. When you have to cut or trim, I used my kid's sidewalk chalk to mark lines/cuts. Then use a stone chisel / hand sledge hammer to chisel along line two times to score a line. I then rap one end of the stone with the butt of the sledge and it breaks clean along the line. If needed, chisel away any ragged edges. Work from one edge outwords using large pieces, then going back and filling in any smaller pieces. As you go along, try to keep edges of flagstone nearly flush. If you disturb the sand as you going along, use a cement trowel to smooth out. When your all done fitting, you can fill joints in one of two ways; buy SANDLOC and mix with sand and water, then put into joints, or what I am doing is mix 1/3 cement with sand and put in joints, smooth and wash away rest from flagstone using sponge. These are the only two things I would do for patios to make sure ants don't start drilling or plants/weeds don't start. Good Luck, Hope this helps.

The sand I use between pavers here in PA is called polymeric sand (contains polymers). It sounds like the same thing as stabilizing sand mentioned above. It is costly. It is around $22.00 for 60 pound bag. It comes in a tan or gray mixture. I don't suppose there is much limestone available in Florida. We use a base of modified stone here (limestone about an inch or so mixed with limestone "dirt" (that's the modified part), so that you can put down a 4 - 6 inch base and tamp it so that it really packs down. Then use 1 inch diameter pipes (appropriate length(s)) to lay down on the packed base which is slightly sloped for water runoff, dump sand (coarse construction or cement sand) in the area of the pipes that are resting on the base and use a straight board (2 x 4) of required length to "screed" or level the sand (don't tamp it) to the one inch depth (the top surface of the pipes will be slightly exposed). Starting at a convenient spot, lay the pavers on the sand and work your way around the area, moving the pipe as required to cover a manageable section with sand, laying pavers as you go. Try to slide the pipe(s), maintaining contact with the base at all times, and fill in the groove left by the pipes with sand, leveling lightly with a flat metal cement hand trowel or something similar.