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recovering over the winter.

14 years ago

I am in NY zone 6a. I am very frustrating that a lot of my roses are damaged over the winter. I am not so sure if it is because I did not use burlap to protect them since some of them had the first winter. I have a lot of black spots on the canes. I am wondering if I can apply some chemicals to treat the problems now. There are some new buds ready to come out. Some of them are even leafing now. I worry the chemicals will damage the buds.

I also have a question about pruning. Some people say when pruning, we have to prune down to 1/3 of the original height. Is it true? I pruned out the tiny twigs and kept the thick canes.

I would appreciate for any comments. I am only in third year of rose growing. Thanks!!

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Comments (3)

jim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
14 years ago
Could you post clear pics of your rose cane damage?
What type of roses do you have?
jim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
14 years ago
Another note: Pruning heights are not set in stone. In colder climates where there is winter damage to canes, the amount of winter damage will dictate how much cane height you will have left.

Please include a pic of your cane damage, if you can. People will be more able to tell you what it is.
Thanks!
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First pic is crabgrass at the corner. Once you get the bermuda more dense in there that should stop. It is sometimes hard to get enough water at the corners where concrete comes together. The concrete holds heat and dries the soil out even overnight. So consider that area to be 10 degrees warmer and water accordingly. Second pic looks like yellow tufts of bermuda. You probably don't know what it looks like when it gets taller. Interesting discussion about not mulch mowing when the turf is young. I'm not sure I buy the idea that the soil biology is not adequate, but I don't have experience with a new bermuda lawn to really discuss it. The clip is a lot of water but not all water. Grass has enough nutrition to grow livestock, so not all water. Truth about the dog, though. We have decks and concrete out our back doors so the dogs don't bring anything in. We have been there before. Organic fertilizer will build the biological population faster than anything. Spray with molasses (3 ounces per 1,000 square feet) along with deep watering, shampoo (3 per thou), and organics, and the biology should be in tip top shape in a month. You can spray the molasses and shampoo at the same time (mixed in the same bottle). It comes out as a brown foam.
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zack_lau z6 CT ARS Consulting Rosarian
14 years ago
I think I've had a little of every type of winter damage one can have in 8 years of rose gardening--burlap wrapping seems to be the most cost effective way getting roses through our nasty freeze/thaw CT winters. I can wait until the roses are really dormant before covering the roses, unlike mulch that freezes. It even prevents canes from snapping at the base, when we get those howling winds.

At a minimum, I'd suggest cutting canes until you no longer see icky brown stuff in the center. You may need to cut them all the way back to the bud union. If you only have the bud union you need to protect it from rabbits and squirrels. I'd suggest chicken wire. Rosarians in cold climates typically bury the bud union to save a few inches of cane over winter.

Some roses do well with woody canes and some don't. If you know a rose does well with wood, keep the woody canes. Brilliant Pink Iceberg is a rose that does well with woody canes. I give it a season or two and cut it out if it doesn't do well.

So far, it doesn't look like I've lost anything out of the dozens of HTs and 150++ roses in our yard--but we aren't quite out of canker and spring flooding season yet.

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