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Mortaring Joints - Covered Flagstone Patio

User
18 years ago

I'm in process of building a covered flagstone patio, about 500SF. Our soil is heavy gumbo. I've dug out and replaced the soil with crushed limestone (SB2) that contains the rock and a good bit of powder about to 6" deep, leveled and compacted. This leaves room for about an inch of sand beneath the flagstone for leveling to reach the desired floor height. If I need more for some of the stones I can dig the SB2 out. Prior to placement of the flagstone I plan to dig a perimeter footing and pour concrete with stone perimeter set and mortered into the concrete to proposed floor level, all to retain the stone and sand from washing away and provide a block for encroaching grass. Our winters are generally mild so upheaval from frost won't be a problem. I believe that the stone base will be very stable after it's set.

My unresolved problem concerns the joints between the flagstone. We routinely use a blower to get leaves, grass clippings, etc. off the carport and away from the house. I'm aware that if we just use sand in these joints between the flagstone it will soon be blown away, as well as tracked into the house. "Stabilizers" that I've found so far are designed for use with interlocking pavers and narrow joints. I'm expecting that joints between the flagstone will vary from 1/8" to 3" or so. Right now I'm thinking of using a dyed morter mix in the joints, as redoing the cracked joints that may occur after a while would be preferable to having the sand blown away and tracked into the house. It seems to me that if the mortar joint is 2" thick (planning on 1-3/4 to 2" thick flagstone) cracks wouldn't be too much of a problem visually and if the base is as stable as I believe it will be the morter shouldn't just "crumble" away.

Has anyone found a better solution to this?

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