It's not unusual for a hybrid tea rose to have burgundy new foliage. (That comes from their semi-tropical wild rose heritage (e.g. Rosa chinensis).) LOTS of them do that. If your autumn is cool and long that new foliage may take a long time to turn green. I'm not personally familiar with any of your roses, but having said that the second two pictures don't strike me as "diseased", given the time of year. I'm not as certain about the first one, but that's because of all the little thorns/prickles running right up to the base of the flower bud. However, I've never grown and never even seen Midsummer's Night Dream, so I'm not in a position to make a definitive diagnosis.

I don't know if they are sick and diseased, but I suspect they haven't liked the periodic cold weather we've had since you planted them. That is why their growth seems slow---they like hot weather and grow like mad when it is hot. When we keep getting late cold weather recurring a day or two a week, like we have had in April and May the last few years, southern peas planted a bit early won't necessarily die, but they'll just sit there and not look particularly happy. Sound familiar? I tend to plant southern peas really late---usually no earlier than mid-May in an average year. Partly that's because I always find myself waiting for a cool-season crop to finish up so I'll have space to plant a hot-season crop, and partly it is because we keep having very cold nights even into early May, and southern peas exposed to cold temperatures seem to have more trouble with pests and diseases. It doesn't look like mosaic to me. It looks like plants that are struggling with the environment---think of all they have been exposed to since you planted them---some really cold nights, some very hot, drying, ridiculously windy days, and far less moisture than young plants like and need. What they need most is for the weather to stabilize and stay nice and warm, with occasional rain. It always amazes me how quickly southern peas grow in the kind of weather they prefer, as well as how much they can sulk and pout when they are too cold. Just relax and ignore them. Let them pout their way through these next couple of cool to downright cold nights and fairly pleasant days. In a few days, our blast furnace temperatures will return and it is likely they'll perk right up and grow well. I started most of my hot pepper plants late and they have remained smallish and slow-growing. Finally, in the last week we hit the kind of blistering hot days/warm nights that they like without any cold nights dropping into the picture and they have responded by doubling in size seemingly overnight. Now, we're about to have overnight lows in the mid to low-40s for a couple of nights. I can guarantee you that my hot pepper plants won't care for those temperatures, and neither will your southern pea plants, but they'll survive. They'll perk up again and grow more as soon as it gets nice and hot again, particularly if rain falls a little here and there. Do keep an eye on the underside of the southern pea plants' leaves. Aphids love to feast on them and aphids can spread viral diseases. Usually the southern pea plants shrug off the diseases and produce well anyhow, but if they already are stunted and growing slowly, it can be harder for them to fight through an aphid infestation and the diseases that often follow. I don't worry much about the appearance of southern pea foliage. Lots of pests are attracted to the foliage and it can go from a beautiful deep green to something much less beautiful fairly quickly. The thing to remember is that we don't grow them for their foliage---we grow them for the peas themselves. Finally, if you are growing them in a place where you haven't grown legumes before, I hope you inoculated then with an inoculant formulated for that type of legume. The inoculant helps them to fix nitrogen and really does seem to improve their growth and performance.

Adding soil and mulch will probably help. I never saw any improvement with cornmeal, and powdery mildew is the only thing that milk helps with in my garden. You need to figure out what specific kind of wilt and blight your plants have, because what works for one kind won't work for another. Look through some of the links in the "HELP!!! Tomato Problem Solver 2" thread in this forum to see if you can identify your plants' problem(s). Or maybe you can post some good close-ups of diseased leaves here. If the "blight" your plants have Early Blight or Septoria, you need something with Daconil (chlorothalonil) in it. Get Ortho Garden Disease Control or Bonide Fung-onil from a garden center. This won't kill disease that is already on infected leaves, it works by sealing healthy leaves so the blight spores can't get in. That means that next year, you should start using it in the spring before you see any blighted leaves so the disease can't get started and your mother won't have to watch her tomatoes lose their leaves. It works for ornamental plants too, so you can probably find other uses for it besides just tomatoes. If the "wilt" you had was a systemic wilt such as Verticillium wilt, no spray will work. It's caused by a fungus that will live for years in the soil, and the only way to prevent it next year is to discard the soil from the pots, use bleach to disinfect the pots and any gardening tools you used, and buy fresh sterile bagged potting soil next year. But try looking through the "HELP!!! Tomato Problem Solver 2" thread to find out exactly which wilt(s) and blight(s) your plants have, because there is no one single cure-all that works for everything, and I only suggested a couple of the more common diseases that are likely suspects.

I have not removed from the pot and examined the rootball as of yet.