Yellowing Boxwood after transplanting
IRuehl
12 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Will my boxwood recover from transplanting?
Comments (2)It will grow new leaves. Right now, it should be putting its energy into growing new roots, which is best done in a low nitrogen situation. Don't fertilize it any more, unless your soil test showed something seriously lacking. It should be fine by next year, and probably by the end of summer. If you haven't mulched around it, do so - as widely as possible, no deeper than 4", and put NO mulch in the couple of inches next to the trunk. It will need regular watering for the next 2 years, but according to how dry the soil gets, not on a set schedule. Stick a finger in the soil, next to the root ball, down to the second knuckle, under the mulch - or use a pointed dowel. If the finger-tip is dry, water, if damp, wait and check again. Soak it well, long and slow, so the water gets to the bottom of the root ball. You should give it the equivalent of an inch of rain per week, but your circumstances - soil, weather, etc. - will dictate how much water that is and how often you need to apply it....See Moretransplanting boxwoods
Comments (6)Greenman, After you remove the boxwoods, you can plant whatever you want there. You might want to add some new organic material like compost and pine bark fines to the soil at that point. No stupid questions! In southern Oklahoma the nurseries are mostly open year-round except for a couple of very small mom-and-pop operations that are home-based and only open spring though fall. All the major nurseries and big box stores usually have plants up to a point. Down here, they start clearing out the plants at the big box stores in Sept./Oct. to make room for Christmas trees and stuff. I would think it would be about the same all over OK. The nurseries usually have stock here deep into fall, but often it is older stuff (which can be an advantage) and new plants are not arriving regularly like they do during the main gardening season. The reason older stuff can be an advantage is that, if they have been held in containers and watered adequately all spring and summer, then they often have better-developed root systems than that on nursery stock fresh from the wholesaler in early spring. Right now, many nurseries in zone 8 (Dallas-Fort Worth area) south of us are already having clearance sales (some offering up to 70% off) and trying to clear out unsold merchandise. I'll buy plants at this time of year at the sales, hold them in dappled shade, water them as needed (usually daily in July-August) and plant them in October. Dawn...See MoreCalifornia lilac turning yellow after transplant
Comments (6)i would go far beyond lack of water being a 'likely problem' .. seeing the bone dry mounds of soil ... the grass left isnt going to help this summer either ... the future is all in the growth tips... all other leaves can be sacrificed ... not the best thing to do.. so we still potential life .... but i agree... put the hose on a trickle.. and leave it there for a few hours ... and shade will definitely help.... get on old bed sheet.. tie it on the fence.. and get some rocks to hold it out in the lawn .... artificial shade ... in case you were to do such again ... and with the soil being that dry ... if you had trickled it at the original site.. a few days ahead.. you could have ensured the plant sucked up enough reserve water ... to help with the move .. and.. if you left it out of the ground for any amount of time.. that didnt help either.. which is why.. next time... dig the new hole first ... which also would tell you.. how dry the soil is ... and if bone dry.. fill the hole a couple times and let it drain away ... saturating the surrounding soil .... and then saturate the root mass .... ahhh.. live and learn.. good luck ... ken...See MoreRecently transplanted boxwoods - hard freeze expected Saturday
Comments (5)if you watered them in properly at transplant .. deep and thoroughly .... then one might argue that that is good enough.. and all watering hours before the cold.. would is chill the soil in advance of the cold ... [dont go thinking your some orange farm in FL... ] cold air temps.. this time of year.. does not necessarily mean that the cold will be long enough to get deep into the soil .. where you want a little root growth/pumping right now ... the mulch would also prolong soil cooling at depth ... does your version of z5 have soil freeze??? the key usually is moving things in dormancy .. and that occurs as sunlight wanes.. and cold temps come along ... dont go all skinny momma on them now.. after doing it basically at the proper time.. and now thinking your poor babies are going to get cold ... could you have done it a few weeks earlier ... probly ... but you're probably within the proper time anyway ... you are just going to have faith .... now.. if it were dipping to minus 28 this weekend.. i would also worry .... but then... i would have a multitude of other non plant related problems.. lol .. and keep in mind.. with no day heat ... if you watered deeply at planting .. odds are.. they will stay moist thru next spring .. there simply wont be enough heat in the day.. to suck out water from depth .... so dont go drowning them for the next few weeks.. insert finger and FIND OUT if they will be needing any further water .... in other words.. dont kill them with too much love ... see link on watering... if nothing else ... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub...See MoreIRuehl
12 years agoIRuehl
12 years agoIpmMan
12 years agokimcoco
12 years ago
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