You wouldn't see salt dispersed throughout the soil in the form of particulates because of its solubility, though you might see crusty deposits on the soil surface if you have an issue with TDS (total of dissolved solids in your soil solution). Some pictures of the plant would be good, and maybe a close-up of the soil. I thought I commented on this post yesterday, but maybe I did something that caused my contribution to vanish into cyberspace ..... wouldn't be the first time a fair amount of work was spoiled by an inattentive keyboard jockey, I guess. Sometimes things we least expect can thwart our best efforts. At any given time, there is one factor that is most limiting growth or vitality. When you figure out how to correct that factor, another immediately takes its place as most limiting. We never really reach perfection, no matter how hard we try, but we can get to the point where most things are close to where the plant would prefer to be if it had a voice. Surprisingly, it's not difficult to cultivate the ability to keep your plants healthy, good looking, and growing well. The largest obstacle in most cases relates to soil choice. We often select media that can't possibly supply a healthy environment for roots w/o much more knowledge/effort than it actually takes to grow well, then we become frustrated when our plants rebel. I have links to threads I posted that will help you understand the importance of a healthy root environment to the wellbeing of the organism proper. To my way of thinking, this should be the starting point for anyone that hopes to become proficient at growing in containers. If you never gain an understanding of how soils work and what plants need in order to maintain a healthy foundation, their root system, you'll forever be spending time and effort trying to find newer and better ways to deal with the limitations imposed by soil choice, when you could be using that time and effort much more efficiently and with much greater reward. Getting back on track, and back to your plant - we might find out what's causing the problem, and we might not. Sometimes it's best to trust in the idea that if you focus on getting the basics right, the plant will reward you by displaying its favor. That doesn't mean you should abandon trying to figure out what is the precise cause of the dull leaves, but please don't withhold trust in the power that learning how to give plants what THEY want has on the rewards you get from your efforts. I'll leave you with something basic that should help you avoid many of the problems that almost everyone near the beginning of their growing journey will end up confronting at some point. If you would like more info, just ask. Al Here is a link that might be useful: An overview

I had six otto luykens in front when moved into house. Three died, yellow leaves turn brown,dropped. When I pulled dead shrubs out noticed base trunk bloated and oozing with wormish holes. Peach borers love cherry laurels. Purchased Bonide 8, Borer/Miner concentrate and have been able to save remaining three (though some pest damage present). Have planted three new also and spraying those also and keeping well watered.

To start I believe those leaves are a little sunburned causing the yellow tint and even the burnt tips. So, that is no worry, and for the yellow veins I would maybe pick up some blood meal from Walmart if you're that worried, blood meal helps with nitrogen deficiency. A but oregon deficiency causes yellowing leaves, so maybe look it up and see if it matches. Otherwise, I don't think you're plants are looking bad at all, but, if you're worried, $6 on blood meal would help a little.

I have a bunch of first year seedlings and was surprised to see that many of them went dormant just like my mature plants. What you are describing sounds just like what happened with mine. The size of the seedlings didn't seem to be a determining factor either. There were an equal number of 6" as well as 15" seedlings that dropped their leaves. Karyn