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inkberry shrub disease?

16 years ago

Hi-

I have 4,6 year old inkberry shrubs that up until last year were green and lush. But last summer I noticed the leaves turning yellowish, with dark marks on the leaves. One of the shrubs started to loose leaves.

Now this spring, it is about 3/4 defoiliated and the other shrubs don't look as good either.

I took a sample to our county extension and he felt it looked like either too much or too little water.

I also applied a mite insecticide.

My neighbor said we had voles around so he got rid of the mulch and went with stone.I still have mulch beds. He said voles can eat the roots of bushes and kill them.

The bushes face the west but located in shade alot as the space between our homes is narrow. Also, our association has watering systems and the area always seems damp to me.

Should I just cut them down? Or can I cut them back and see if the dead brances grow back or will they?

Any advice?

Thanks,

Julyguy

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Comments (5)

bullthistle
16 years ago
Don't do rocks and can't you have the association adjust the watering because each residence should have a separate timer? I'd say cut them back but if it is too much water it will not help. It is a shame that with water shortages that something can't be done to reduce the amount.

Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials
ego45
16 years ago
I had exactly the same problem last year.
Early spring application of dormant oil and mid-season application of miticide solved it.
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Agree with Dan. I looked up the product MSDS sheet after posting over on the Harvest forum on your question. Tebuconazole is a systemic but is approved for use on some vegetable crops, including tomatoes, and the Bayer product you used is a very low dose of it compared to the amount used in the commercial grower products (2.9% vs. up to 38%). So ultimately the choice is up to you. Personally I would never use it on anything because of all the issues Dan raised. But many do use it and think nothing of it. And to be fair one would have to ingest a huge amount of the affected fruit to get even close to semi-toxic levels. Not that I am advocating doing that. But since it is a plant systemic then any later fruit is likely going to be just as affected. You could always call the Bayer hotline and ask them for their opinion but their website does say "do not apply to edible foods". Dave https://www.bayeradvanced.com/find-a-product/rose-flower-care/disease-control-for-roses-flowers-shrubs https://www.teagasc.ie/media/website/crops/horticulture/approved_veg_pesticides_march_2017.pdf
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conifers
16 years ago
Cut em down. You're now on what is known as an uphill battle. A fungicide/insecticide application will always be in your future. Replace with something that will withstand water-logged soils. Blueberry comes to mind if the area is well-drained.

Sorry and good luck.

Dax
Michael Beery
Original Author
16 years ago
I guess I am a novice at all this. If I cut them back how far? The entire mulch bed does not get wet but a portion of it does every day. I thought Inkberrys took lots of moisture?
I do feel as if it will take lots to bring them back or to protect the others that are starting to loose leaves.
I have no control over the water, everyone is on the same schedule, not on an individual basis.
I wonder why it took so long for them to get this way since the watering has been the same each year. Wonder if it is more insect or fungal related. If I cut the branches they will grow back?
Thanks again,
Julyguy
diggingthedirt
16 years ago
There's a "new" (2002) infection effecting Ilex glabra down south (Virginia) that I just read about this week ... not sure if your symptoms match these exactly, but overly damp soil does not sound good.

If you put your location into your GW login, it will make it easier for people to reply with appropriate information.

Here is a link that might be useful: Phytophthora cinnamomi on Ilex glabra

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