Most people use bubblers and heaters to maintain a hole in the surface ice just to allow pond gasses to escape. I would assume the only safe way to keep any ice from forming on the surface would be to maintain a water temperature above 32 degrees.

I know of one pond in my area that accomplishes this task. They use multiple stock tank heaters. The 1500 watt type. The procedure must cost hundreds of dollars. They are a commercial establishment, so the cost probably doesn't matter that much.

Some of my neighbors use special propane heaters to warm their swimming pools. I guess that equipment can be adapted to a pond.

Am I understanding that you want no ice on the surface? That will be rather difficult in your area. One thing I have seen that works, but is a lot of work, is to make a floating greenhouse. Making a spine and ribs and covering with greenhouse plastic to cover the pond will keep it insulated and actually heat it to some degree. I agree that multiple heaters could do it, but it will cost a bunch to run that much wattage. An air pump would be nice for your fish, but it won't keep the surface ice-free unless its bubbling the entire surface rapidly the whole winter.
Did it really do that much damage? Some shifting is natural. If you have three feet, could you just drain a few inches to get below the stone and not worry about it?
There are options, but most are going to cost a lot to keep a pond ice-free in Chicago. Good Luck.

I agree with "watershaper". The best solution for your rocks is to drain the water down about 8-12 inches. Anything else is very expensive.

Thanks for your help maybe I will try keeping the water level lower this year.My electric bill is high enough with my salt reef tank and my pool and hot tub I feel i OWN PART OF COMED with a bill around $250 a month already.

I don't remember if I read it on here or another site, but I found a good idea on how to keep the ice from moving your rocks or edges of your pond that i intend to try this winter.
It said to take gallon plastic milk cartons and fill the bottom with an inch or two of sand so they will float but not sit on the top of the water. As the pond top freezes the ice will cause the milk cartons to collapse taking the pressure from the ice instead of the edges of your pond. I suppose you would need several depending on the size of your pond. But I thought it sounded pretty good.
Char

Geez you have some of the best pond builders in the country in Chicago. Have ever heard of Aquascape check it out www.aquascapeinc.com Ed Beaulieu is the best pond builder in the world he lives in chicago.

I agree with curb and waterchanger. Drop the waterlevel a few inches. Then get a small bubbler or deicer to keep a bit of a hole in the ice for gas exchange for the fish. Any true pond pro will agree.

Yes, we have heard of Aquascape. Enough said. No commercials please.

:) Mary

i run a mag drive 500 and a thermo cube. it is an elect.outlet that turns on and off with the temp.you could run a larger pump in colder cilmates

Ny pond freezes solid for the winter except in the deep end. 2 yrs ago I drained the pond down below the skimmer inlet as worried about skimmer cracking. I found that by lowering the water level when the ice expanded up it lifted the rocks. Last year I left the pond full and a small airstone in the skimmer. No rock shifting and the skimmer was okay. One ponder here puts those floating styrofoam dock floats along the edge of his pond which he says keeps ice from damaging the liner. I think ice thaws and refreezing might cause shifting of the ice which in turn might cause rock shifting. I have several layers of rock so it would take alot of shifting to move them. If you cover your pond with plastic or in my climate they suggest plywood with a tarp and straw bales on top it insulates the pond. I had krona insulation over part of mine last year and still had ice under the insulation even with a bubbler running all winter. None of the fish I left in the pond made it through the winter which is why they are in the garage now as winter is coming quickly here....

If he drops the water level 1 foot in a 3 foot deep pond that only leaves 2 feet of water and in Chicago he risks running total freeze to the bottom in water that shallow. I am in Zone 7 and my frost line is 22".

I would float things in the pond to create explansion relief so one big solid block of ice does not form that will push your rocks. The concept is the same for large expanses of poured concrete but this is ice on water. Ensure one big sheet does not form but floating things that break the areas up and can move in the pond. A log is going to move before a ton of rock.

If you have to lower the water by only a few inches to be below the rock line then OK.

The milk jug idea sounds great but you can also float wood, styrofoam, basketballs, etc.

IMO people up north, in really cold zones, should employ a variety of methods to combat cold and ice issues. Nobody really cares what the pond looks like in the dead of winter so silly looking things like milk jugs and basketballs don't matter.

I use a bubbler and while it keeps the water moving, ultimately the top will eventually freeze except for a very small area around the bubbler. If the temps get cold enough, an ice dome will even form above the bubbler. If you have fish you can't lower the pond level that much. This sounds like a lot of fuss and bother. You live in a cold climate, so if freezing water causes that much displacement to your stones, then you need to re-design your pond. It isn't done correctly.

I use a stock tank heater in the cage and put it next to the skimmer and I keep the pump running for the water fall all winter. Yes the electric bill will go up but I feel its worth it. Have done this for the last 6 years and it has kept the pond from freezing. Has to be easier than trying to cover it. Fish have done fine too.

Last year we had 144" of snow and 70+ days of continuous snow cover here at 6625ft.
A popular and inexpensive way to keep your pond open among the Pikes Peak Water Garden Society members is to use an aquarium bubbler and submerge the bubbler stones about 12-18" below the surface.Then go to Home Depot and buy two, clear , dome-shaped window well covers and screw them together along the top flange to make a dome. Attach four pieces of styrofoam to the bottom edges so it floats and place it over your bubblers. Anchor it to the side of your pond with string or twine to hold it in place. I also use a 250 GPH submersible pump connecected to 3/4" pvc pipe that sticks about 4" above the surface and the water flow is directed down to the surface of the water. This keeps the water moving and keeps it from freezing. I have used these methods successfully for five years and it's much cheaper to operate than a stock tank heater.
Hope this helps.
Jon

mrfixers,

I've got the same problem you have here in Wonder Lake, northern Illinois. My stone(pic) is mortared along the back side into place around my pond, but I'm concerned that if I leave the water level up to the stone with a freeze/thaw it will break my stone loose from the mortar. I thought about just leaving it go one winter, but chickened out thinking about having to re-mortar all the stone.
I have done what 'curb1' and 'watershaper' recommended, drained the pond down several inches below the border stone. However during the course of the winter with heavy snows and melting the water level comes back up to the stones. I bought a Porta-pump(pic) at Menards home improvement store for about $110, along with a few short pieces of garden hose with fittings. I haven't had to pump it out that often, depending on the precip', and the with the pump, it only takes a few minutes.
I use a 'Thermo-pond III' to keep a hole in ice for gas exchange. Using a heater to heat the entire pond is out of the question especially with Com-Ed electic rates spiking!
I'm in the process of making an overflow in my skimmer with a 'summer' and 'winter draw down' level with a plug that I can alternate between the two levels. Not sure if it will work or not, hopefully I'll have it done and see if it works next winter.

Witz

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I have a 165gal preform with 6 fish and use a $15 aquarium pump with 2 airstones and a Thermo-pond deicer to keep a hole open. My fish have gone through 3 winters without any problems and the ice has been 3-4 inches thick. Just have to make sure the hole in the Thermo-pond stays open during those really cold spells.

I know this is over kill but it should be posted if someone feels they could use this baby.

http://www.houseneeds.com/shop/HeatingProducts/boilers/pondheatingpackagebuy.asp

I live in Ft Worth and my pond built up a 4in slush topping for about 5days. Each day I would use the pond net to pull some off only to see it covered later.

Id love to keep my 9x12' 1200Gal pond a nice 65' all winter but unless I find a stock heater with a modified thermostat
I might just build a few layers thick of pool cover bubble wrap on cedar wood frames and lay it over my rock edging.

Here is a link that might be useful: Gas Pond Heater

one thing I do know is moving water won't freeze. that is why rivers and streams do not freeze in the winter if they are moving fast enough. so creating water movement on the surface with whatever it may be such as a fountain or air bubbler or aquarium water pumps whatever keeps the water moving should do the job as long as it moves the water arround fast enough to keep it from freezing.