Using pure composted manure for vegetable starts
guayzimi
13 years ago
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keriann_lakegeneva
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone use composted horse manure?
Comments (20)Here's my input to this interesting subject. On my mother's garden, we used only composted horse manure. By composted I mean the horse manure that had been on the bottom of the manure pile for at least a couple of years. The horses were boarded by us for their owners, we rented out the stable space and did all the upkeep. We used oat straw for bedding, the resulting manure, after several years was dark brown and powerful. The horses were "out to pasture" all summer and winter, except early spring after the frost was out of the ground. They could do a lot of damage to the turf if not kept off the pasture when it was soggy. We suplimented the pasture with hay that was bought where ever we could get it, it often was NOT the best quality. When hauled to the garden, then tilled deeply into the black loam we had, it would sometimes be too much fertilizer.I planted jalapeño peppers in that soil, huge plants with minimal yield. But growing onions in that resulted in some huge ones! I never noticed any excess weeds, more than normal. I think the secret to my success was getting the manure from the bottom of the pile resulted in the weed seeds being killed by the heat of decomposition. Frequently steam could be noticed coming out of the pile in colder weather! Sadly, that was 20 years ago, the folks are gone, so is the land. I'm stuck using a community garden now....See MoreHow much manure/compost to use?
Comments (12)Your soil needs what it needs and it is best to look at your soil and not ask people that want to sell you something. Start with a good, reliable soil test that will not only tell you your soils pH but why it is what it is as well as the levels of Phosphorus, Potash, Calcium, Magnesium, and the ratio. Then dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else your soil might need....See MoreUse composted manure as mulch?
Comments (3)Agree that it needs to be well composted before using around edible crops. Pathogens are the concern, not N burn levels. Stockpiled manure/bedding isn't the same thing as composted manure. Composted manure has had a diverse mixture of other ingredients added to it and treated as a compost pile, aerated, moistened, etc. over time. And even the most minimal safe recommendation for adding manure to the garden is 90-120 days prior to harvest so would that fit your garden? Many of us recommend much longer but that always triggers a debate as all the previous discussions here reflect. ;) So go for the minimum at least. Dave...See MoreUses and abuses of COMPOSTED cow manure...
Comments (9)Yes, you can just toss it around... but when dry, it is very light and becomes dust in the wind. Better to scratch it in. I'm not aware of any plants that don't like it. Depending on how it was handled during composting, it may be nutrient deficient, and just a soil amendment... still, not usually a problem that plants 'won't like'. I have heard though, that it can foster problems with scab on potatoes. I don't know much about that, but it's worth taking a look at. Yes, you can use too much, but that's subjective and based on your soil. Again, if it was protected during composting, and is rich in nutrients, it can contribute to over fertilization problems. It could also have salts which were not leached out.... back to your soil, and drainage. Well, I guess that, in my opinion, spreading too thin can be considered a waste of time, but this will be your estimation of what's of more value to you... a moderate application to help a targeted area, or a little for everything. I would use it more heavily in Autumn, but if composted well, I would have no problems with using it at planting time (regardless of season,) as well as using it as top dressing. Dry, crumbled, broadcast... see above... you can do it, but it can become dust in the wind... even days after applied. I think using it with compost is a good idea. I wouldn't add it to a compost pile (if that's what you mean by 'turn it in', as I think that's pretty much a 'waste of time'.) but if you mean 'turn it in' when working your soil... yep... that's a perfectly fine way to use it. My roses do well when I just stay away from them lol, so I'll let someone with more experience confront that one. ;-)...See Moreoilpainter
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