Natalie, I can tell you how I pack them to ship. Email me with your 'have' list and also your 'wish' list - I need some bulbs! To ship bulbs: Dig bulbs and wash all the soil off the bulb/roots, then let dry over night. Get some newspaper and wrap each bulb individually. LABEL the bulbs, using masking tape, which will also help hold the newspaper on. Place them in the box and use wadded up newspaper to fill in the spaces, so the bulbs don't roll around and get bruised. Secure the bulbs and newspaper with masking tape for further secure travel. Make labels for your box, use strapping tape to secure the box, take it to the post office and GET A GUARANTEE of delivery, so you don't get stiffed! EMAIL the recipient and let them know when you mail them, so they can be looking for the box. Ask THEM to email you when they get the box.

I soak in water all the way up as high as it will go in a 5 gallon bucket of water with a few drops of Superthrive in it for at least a day (and I'm ashamed to admit that it's gone as long as a week when I couldn't get back to them) before planting. No chemical fertilizer but I do use some fish emulsion on them. Most of mine go into pots but I still plant the unions below the potting soil level. Anything dead or black gets cut off immediately. As well as any of the sickly white growth that you sometimes get from shipping. Later on after they've leafed out I go back and re-prune any new dead tips. I've planted as late as July 4th but you have to be extra careful that they stay well watered and if it gets very hot shade them during the hottest part of the day until they've started to put on some size. I hear you, Mike, YIKES it was hot today! But last week I was griping about the darn frost warnings, lol!

Newgen: I've done dozens of bareroots and had good luck for the most part, with only some losing quite a bit of foliage (none lost *all*). But it seems bad luck has hit me this year as I'm 0 for 3 on gritty mix bareroots (all 3 have lost significant foliage). It's depressing and frustrating. However, the worst loser of the bunch has already re-grown quite a bit of the foliage, which is an excellent sign if yours is already doing so a few weeks afterward. I was *sure* I had done well with that worst loser and thought it wouldn't even notice I had bare-rooted 'er. I was wrong. I decided to build some 511 and just refresh the outer few inches of the additional trees targeted for gritty. I'll just wait until Spring to do them -- now THEY didn't miss a beat when I did not bare root and put into 511. I do the majority of the work underwater and/or late at night and sometimes things still go wrong. After repot I relocate to spots only receiving direct morning light with the container itself always protected from direct light. Here in our climate, even 11am direct sunlight is harsh on a recovering citrus when ambient is already 90F by then. If I don't do used these methods, my experience has shown the tree struggling immediately afterward. But again, I've never totally lost one on a bare-root for gritty mix. I've only lost one when I tried to do root pruning simultaneously and another that had root loss from winter freezing. Just a general note to anyone else who may also have struggling citrus after bare-root into gritty: Be sure not to over-fert and especially excess Nitrogen can force the tree to regrow lots of foliage it cannot support -- it will then drop those same leaves and take some of the limbs, too. Just small amounts until a few weeks have passed and you know it's in the clear (no signs of stress). If there is lots of immediate loss, then again stay with a bit lower than normal N until it stops with the loss and settles or even puts out it's first leaf. I'm thinking closer to a 1-1-1 ratio vs. a 3-1-2 or 5-1-3 for normal healthy conditions. Good luck! Chris

Since you plan to plant out your roses after starting them in pots, would think the type of soil you'll have in your garden at the new house is a key consideration. Will you establish beds at your new place with a blend of topsoil & compost or amend the native soil in some way to provide favorable growing conditions? In my experience, matching the container blend closely to the garden soil in which a plant will later grow is important, since a mismatch between the two can prove problematic down the line. Commercial "potting soil" substitutes peat moss as the growing medium for soil & is considered soilless. Plants growing in that can have a hard time expanding their roots into garden soil once transplanted & the original potting soil can continue to stay wetter or drier than surrounding soil for a good while until worms & soil organisms knit it into the whole. With your bare root roses, you'll mainly see anchor roots, as the finer network of feeder roots that grow from these are mostly lost in harvest & storage. Once planted, new feeder roots will develop from the anchors to multiply moisture & nutrient delivery. In a transitional pot intended for garden transplant, I like a slightly lighter version of the target site the plant will later occupy - a bit fluffier than the garden soil to maximize feeder root development & retard compaction of the planting mixture that can occur in a pot, but composed mainly of the same elements & textures of the final planting location, so a custom mix. When utilizing potting soil, I look for one with no fertilizer added or at most a slow release, but then I like to control what type of fertilizer & schedule, and generally give none to bare roots until they leaf out & in liquid organic form at that time to sidestep burning new feeder roots. Mixed thoroughly with quality topsoil & finished compost in equal parts, makes a good potting soil that can be further tweaked. Agree with nikthegreek about container size. Better to later pot up to a larger size if necessary when new roots have filled the pot than to have soil & roots fall away when you go to plant in the garden. Nursery pots are shaped to allow for easy transplant, can have the bottoms cut away, be supported beneath & placed in the planting hole & then have the pot sides cut way for minimal root disturbance. If using dark pots, slip them into light colored containers to keep them cool. Dark pots heat up quickly & can cook the roots. Potting bare roots this late, out of season, need to be careful the canes don't sunburn before leaf out, so the morning sun on your East facing porch should help until the foliage grows. If the humidity doesn't keep up, may want to mist the canes & new leaves with the mist setting of a watering wand to mimic moister air, or set the pots on large saucers filled with gravel & standing water below the top of the gravel which can evaporate moisture to the roses above. Have the impression your area is relatively low humidity usually? Turn the pots for leaf development as you would houseplants on a windowsill for even growth. Once they've leafed out, you may want to gradually give them more sun exposure till they get the same as where you plan to plant them. Most of the Austins here get morning sun from sunrise till 1-3 pm & do fine. If you find the growth stretching toward the sun even with turning the pots, that usually means they're wanting more of it. What an adventure for you - new roses, new home, new garden! Congratulations & enjoy the ride. (Just for the record, I'm in Nik's camp on rose potting for nourishment & endurance.)