Like you, I recently bought a potted,grafted Shenandoah 'tiny' plant and transpotted it into a bigger pot, where it has grown OK with 2 small branches developing full-sized healthy leaves. An identicle-looking tiny grafted KSU Atwood from the same seller that was packaged the same, growing in the same kind of nursery pot, repotted by me the same into the same kind of tall pot on the same day in the same soil mix with the same fertilizing and the same watering and the same Sunlight....never had one bud on the tiny scion grow out. It's rootstock sent out a couple shoots, but even these declined and died. I have used Miracle Grow, Super Thrive, and some granular fertilizer to nourish both. My conclusion is that the tiny root system is not reliable to support the tiny grafted scion. I have more confidence in clipping off the scion and regrafting it to a mature paw paw with a developed root system. I do not know what the patent restrictions dictate, but if I am going to invest $$ on a valued scion that is only being kept alive by an immature, very vulnerable rootstock, that is not a safe bet to make again. It would be a whole lot better taken care of if it was grafted onto a "Mango paw paw that has been in the ground for several years and is 8 or 9 feet tall". I wish that paw paw roots on tiny plants were as eager to grow and hardy as,.. say,...mulberries. Maybe that would be the best focus of additional paw paw research. Vigorous hardy rootstocks.

Try checking here.. http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/

I hope the pine bark works on the news ones I just planted but if I decide to stay in this house, next year, I will plant roses with the Fortuniana roots. I may even do that this year, I can take these back but some are blooming, I don't want to dig up the roses now. I do know I will not bother with any roses other than Fortuniana root ones from here though. In the meantime, I am going to mix up the fertilizer you suggested and hope it helps the other roses from last year bloom! Thank you again!! Lisa

It really is very difficult to diagnose problems from photographs, so if there is any sort of rhododendron society or agency that deals with horticultural questions you can call on, that would be a good first step. The top photograph shows pretty typical leaf spotting from fungal infection. There are a great many possible types of fungus that can cause this, so most gardeners try to ignore it. Skipping to the bottom photo of the White Lights, the foliage looks abnormal and generally unhealthy. Purely as a guess, I would say that the problem originates with the soil it is planted in. The odd purple color of the foliage suggests some sort of nutritional problem that only a soil test might diagnose with any sort of accuracy. The. real puzzle is why one of the plants is a picture of health and covered with flowers while the others are clearly struggling. In your first set of photos, the non blooming plants have leaves emerging only from the upper branch tips. This suggests too little light. rhododendron and azalea difficulties are very often related to soil conditions or planting technique (failure to loosen the root ball, for example). Perhaps the professionals who did the original planting can help you determine what the problems might be.