They're not a problem. Allow the potting mix to dry off a bit. A general guideline: Plant pests move slowly whereas predators move rapidly.

If they are dead -- sort of skeletal and not moving if you touch them, they are probably moulted aphid skins -- in which case you have aphids and the Safer soap routine will get rid of them. If they have wings and fly away when you poke them, they are probably white flies. Safer soap will help, but so will looking on the underside of the leaves of your plants -- if you see small rings of white powder, that's where white flies are laying their eggs. I gently rub those white rings and any little bug things around them to squish them -- that way you kill the larval and egg stages. If you have a lot of white flies, putting a yellow sticky card next to your plants may help -- White flies are apparently very attracted to the color yellow and most garden and hardware stores sell sticky cards for them: they are yellow cards, some 4X7" in size covered in a very very sticky stuff that y;ou hang or put on a stick near the plants you want to protect. The adult white flies fly over to the color yellow and try to land and then get stuck on the sticky stuff. I have one card between each of my tomato plants and between those and gently rubbing off any white circles I see on the plants, I can keep the white flies in check.

Thanks to everyone for all the great info! I'll try turning the bin every few days (except for the bottom four inches, and carefully so all the stuff doesn't fall out the bottom since it's a flow through bin), stop feeding except for a few ground egg shells, and add shredded dry cardboard. The vinegar fly trap also sounds like a good idea. In a couple weeks (or whenever I start feeding again) I'll freeze the food first, allow it to thaw then bury it in alternating corners of the bin. No more water added, only a couple damp t-shirts laid on top. I'm embarrassed to admit that I have never read Worms Eat My Garbage. I guess I'll go to amazon and purchase a copy (used, if there's anyone willing to sell it!). Also I think I'll start a new smaller bin. I'd like to start with a more ideal environment and see what happens. I do alot of sheetrock work, so I have access to tons of empty 5 gal sheetrock compound buckets. I'll drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of one (for bedding and worms) and set it down in one w/o holes (to catch the drippings). For bedding I could use some of the composted manure I got from the landscaping supply place for my garden(or should I use the manure from my neighbor's barn, cleaned out last fall?) and some damp shredded card board (What is a good manure/cardboard ratio? or would the peat moss purchased for the garden be better?) I'll select a few hundred lucky volunteers from my from my old bin to populate this worm Utopia. When the bedding is processed I could set a new bucket with holes in the bottom on top of the first one and allow the worms to migrate up, allowing enough time for any cocoons to hatch so the babies can migrate too. I have lids for the buckets, and a dark corner in the basement in which to store it. What do you think? Will it work? What are the weaknesses in this plan? Sorry this is so long. Maybe I'll make that last paragraph a new topic. Thanks to all.

The white ones are end-stage larvae (nymphs) of leaf-footed bugs -Family Coreidae (see link below to learn all about them). See the 6 legs with the black flat feet? I can't tell yet which one it is for sure. There are many members of the family, some harmful and some kind of beneficial and from the body shape my best guess at this time would be one of the beneficials as they have the longer, narrower body as opposed to the "shield" members of the family such as squash bugs. But it's just a guess. ;) Your main problem is all the aphids as you have 3 different types of them. I would suggest hosing off the plants well to get rid of them all and if they mass again try the soapy water spray recipe. Good Luck with the garden. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Leaf-footed bug families