Any Garden Rooms In Your Future This Season?
le_jardin_of_roses
14 years ago
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gardennatlanta
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Do you have any of these Polygonatum in your garden?
Comments (41)Resurrecting an old thread but curious to see how Byakko has done for you Rouge. It is SO unique but also pretty pricey. I have read that it requires "perfect" conditions to show the variegation that is so prevalent in the nursery photos. I would guess this means rich but well-drained soil and keeping it consistently moist but not over watered. Some AM sun and PM shade. Aka pretty much the same ideal conditions under which all woodland plants thrive... I've also read it can take a few years for the plant to show variegation. oI'd be interested to hear if you've got any other recommendations of Poly that thrive for you. I am just now exploring the many gorgeous varieties. I did add a mini variety last year to the border of my shade garden hoping it does indeed clump up and form an interesting ground cover. Our winter has been brutal, so I'll be interested to see if this little guy made it through and how vigorous/clump forming it ends up. Polygonatum prattii...See MoreWhat do you modify in your garden to continue your garden passion
Comments (43)Kim said... >My original obsession was outrageously out of hand and I loved it. [...] I'm keeping to the level area as much as possible. Weeding that slope is offensive enough without having to traipse up and down, sliding on every other step, to maintain anything down there. I know I will resent the ones which go on the slope and will eventually allow them to go the way of the Dodo, so I'm choosing to rid myself of them, instead. That's a LOT of roses, quite a few of which are seedlings either generated through my obsession or those shared with me by other "obsessives", but that is what it is going to take to keep this "fun", doable and prevent the water requirements from eating me out of house, home and desire. Weeding through them to maintain those which are just happier to be here with me and those which are endangered, has been a real chore. Now, if there was a ton of level land with high ground water. Hi Kim, Back in the Dark Ages we lived in California in just the sort of spot you are conjuring up as a high ground water fix. But native trees really like spots like that too... and our house had lots of shade, too much shade for most roses. Still, we wouldn't have dreamed of cutting down a tree. We didn't own the house, we like trees, and anyway, removing a tree was illegal without a good reason for a permit where we lived (a Monarch Butterfly preserve). Anyway, we were relative youngsters at the time and didn't know just how wet that property was until our vegetable garden was swimming in water during the winter months. It was fine, fine black silty sand that held on to the water pretty well too. Your post made me think about what we'd do if confronted with your lack of water problems back in California again. What you're doing makes a lot of sense. But I also am wondering whether a bank full of Renaes rambling around might not survive and also keep the weeds down once they proliferated and established themselves? They might take over the other remaining roses, but if you weren't still trying hard to keep those... A bunch of Renaes might not require so much watering once established? I don't think a big crowd of them would look bad at all, depending on personal tastes, of course. In fact, I prefer that kind of look. We've done that crowded thing in a pretty good sized area with azaleas and rhododendrons here; they all grow together and if there's a weed under there somewhere, well, you can't easily penetrate to find or see it. Once in awhile there's a tree sneaking in that will have to be pulled up, but basically it's too shady under all the plant thickness for most weeds to grow. And I adore the looks of those crowded plants! No, we don't have big problems with fungal diseases, even with the crowd. Maybe fewer than average problems, though phytopthera wilt sometimes does require some cutting back of rhododendron limbs. You know a big problem with azaleas and rhododendrons is that they aren't drought tolerant. Well, we have lost huge numbers since our drought problems began big time here around 2001. It's been wonderfully rainy most of the time during the last couple of years, but the next drought period is probably just around the corner... and if we lose some more azaleas and rhododendrons then, well, I'm thinking of trying to establish some Renaes and Annie Laurie McDowells in their place in the relatively sunnier spots... along with some more camellias, which are drought tolerant after the first year. (Though blooming is less than ideal if August and September are dry.) We lost our Annie Laurie McDowell to Rose Rosette Disease last year, but I am figuring that if it's anything like our Renae here, well, it's as no-care, no-worry a plant as any other plant of any kind we've ever had in our yard. Not a touch of blackspot or any other disease here thus far (though that may well change just a bit as we get more shade as the sun angle changes during the fall). Anyway, I'm hoping for another Annie Laurie McDowell eventually too. Ours is a no-spray all-organic yard for everything we grow and Renae fits well into that way of doing things. I think Annie Laurie McDowell will too. I know it hurts to cut back some on what you are able to continue doing, Kim. But I keep thinking mostly about your achievements and how much you have helped so many others in what you have already contributed. Thank you! Best wishes, Mary...See MoreWhat do you do to keep your gardening groove off season?
Comments (21)Hey Anniebert-- To clarify, I do most of my gardening in PA (Adams County) zone 6, north of Frederick by 40+ miles. The rest I do in Westminster, MD. I've lived here in MD 5 years and have gone by the wisdom of the local plant nursery (Bowmans) more than by Victory Seeds' frost chart--which most of the links on Google guide one to. Here in Westminster, the common wisdom is to wait until May because the last frost of the season is fickle and can occur right up to mid-May. So we wait to put tomatoes in by that date. Now up in Adams County, also considered in the MidAtlantic zone 6, an examination of the actual last/first frost/freeze records from 1972 to current show that the last frost did not occur sooner than April 20th, but is mostlikely to occur the second week of May--even up to May 20! April is more of a freeze month and we have even had freezes up to May 28!(1994) So, in either place, I wouldn't dare go by the last frost dates you gave! I hope this explains my position and why I was wondering about your "sanity". Haha. :-) As for starting plants from seed--every year I tell myself I am going to get the cold loving flowers like Stock begun in time. I hope this year I can break the pattern of not getting to it in time!...See MoreAny Four Season Vegetable Gardeners Out There?
Comments (4)There are some greens that will overwinter here- collards, kale, and turnips left in the ground to make greens in early spring. My experience is that they must be planted by seeding by July 15 in order to get to sufficient size to make it when cold weather hits. Perhaps plant starts would succeed if you could find them. You might be able to stick some uncut turnips in the ground and have them recommence growing. Fava beans and peas can be planted as early as Feb. 15 but my experience is that those planted a month later catch up. I start tomatoes in Jan. or Feb. under lights and move them out in April under double-walled tunnels (TunLCover). I also start cukes and squash early and set them out about May 15 under tunnels to get an early start....See Morele_jardin_of_roses
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