It is quite easy to get them to keiki. Start out by dipping the bottom of the cane where it broke into some sort of fungicide. I dip mine in pure neem oil undiluted. You can either plant it up right or lay it across the top of a pot of sphag. Keep the sphag moist and give it some warmth(75-85F). Higher ambient humidity with the increased temp usually gets them to keiki faster. Give it plenty of light too. The more the merrier, anything but midday direct sun. I have a 5 clippings at the moment that someone gave me to reproduce. c2 nobiles(1 being Red Emperor'prince' AM/AOS) and 3 phal types. I put 1 nobile and 1 phal type into the same pot. 2 pots, the loner phal type went in with the sundew. One pot was watered with plain water and produced slower than the pot given mild fert and superthrive. Good luck with the adventures!!!

Hi Nickjoseph Glad you're enjoying GW and we're happy to be of help! For when to cut back dead canes, the easiest answer is "as soon as you can tell they're dead". It's easier to get to them earlier in the spring as soon as the rose canes start sprouting growth below the bad parts, but that kind of awareness of which canes are really alive comes in time with rose growing. You can always cut truly dead canes out at any time of the year. The rose doesn't know the difference - it's like cutting your hair, since it's all dead cells anyway. There's no reason to keep them, since the roots do the work of holding the rose down to the soil for rain and wind. In fact, being too top heavy might be a negative in that sense. The rule for how far to trim back the canes is you keep cutting until you see healthy cane. What we mean by healthy cane is creamy white color inside the cane after you cut. If there's still a dark tan or brown center to the cane, it's doomed even if there's still live growth on that cane. Similarly, canes that have dark brown or dark purple patches on the outside are doomed even if there's live growth at the end of them. There is a big incentive for cutting down to healthy cane in these cases, since some kinds of unhealthy cane conditions (like canker) can travel further down the cane if unchecked. Logistically, the dead canes in the middle of the bush are not fun to get to during active growing seasons, so wear long sleeves and brace yourself. If there's just a dead stub at the base of the plant, I usually let it be if it's in the middle of the bush and figure I'll get it further next spring before the growth takes off. If there are substantial dead canes in the middle, I'd take them out. It's OK if you have to cut back some portion of a live cane, though I usually wait till after it blooms, since it'll grow back if it's healthy. Once you get the pruning in shape this season you can tweak things further in the spring and then it won't be this complicated next year. Hope this helps Cynthia

You can try to root it, but the bud will not survive.

Hybrid Musks tend to grow that way. They shoot up tall canes, grow leaves and finally the canes start to bend over. I would just leave the cane as you probably will be getting another to match it. If not them when you prune in the fall, that is a good time to cut it back. But not by a half as you want the look of Penelope, which is gracefully bending over. Penelope is the best Hybrid Musk for growing in only filtered sun. She needs shade or she bleaches to a whitish pink. Penelope