Tanchot, Do not use the herbicide on your moss! What you got is not a real moss species!!! It is a vascular plant!! It is also called Scotch Moss, Sagina subulata. It is a great plant that works well as a substitute for true mosses because it does not need the humidity or water quality that true mosses need. I do not know if the UV will really do the job. If you had an aquarium then probably but a pool is a very big system and even with uv and filtration you can have problems. Part of the soapy film problem may be caused by soil or wash out off the adjoining area getting into your pool. Of course it is also a sign of a high nitrogen level from decomposition in excess of what can be handled by the pool micro life. You should re-evaluate your filtering system to be sure that what you are using is appropriate for the size of your pool and perhaps get a power suction pump and try to clean out the bottom of the pool. I never had one of these gizmos as I was low-budget so what I would do to fight this problem is stir up the pool with a fish net on a pole so that the bottom debris would be floating around and then turn on a hose full blast and stuff it into the pool and let the water flood out into a lower pool that I used as a sump for the higher one. I always hated the soapy cover and never really knew if it was a prank. One thing I have found is that if you have a plant like Parrots Feather on the surface of a portion of the pool that it tends to eliminate this problem. It looks like you do not have many plants at all. If you need some I can send you some as I have lots and will be composing them if I can't give them to some local nursery to sell! Depending on your zone they will take it down to mid 30s but if you get lower then you will need to take them out and trash them and get more next season as if they die in the pool they can add to your problems! So think about some plants. There are alot of online retailers. Cheers.

That moss is more than likely growing there because of a soil problem, most likely low organic matter levels in the soil, as well as low sunlight that all grasses need to grow. Start working on eliminating the moss be getting a good, reliable soil test done. Ialk with the people at your counties Ohio State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. The results of these tests can guide you in making corrections to the soil so other types of plants have a better chance of growing there. Here is a link that might be useful: OSU CES

It looks like cinquefoil (Potentilla), and it shouldn't be too hard to eradicate. For the taller ones, grab the single stem and pull hard. For the low stuff, make sure to gather all the stems together in your hand, then twist and pull. You also might try a dandelion fork if the hand pulling isn't doing it for you. OR you could give up and enjoy their early summer blooms, or boil the stuff and help ease a toothache. :D Good luck with that! Brenda

Fungi are a fact of life. There are over 100,000 microbial species in your soil of which a very large fraction are fungi. As gardengal said, you will never be free of them and you don't want to be. Whether they are creating mushrooms is something else. You can minimize the mushrooms by proper watering. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.