Looks like a sad lavender - crushed leaf smell should clinch it. Don't overwater it by way of compensation - they like it a little on the dry side (but not as dry as it HAS been). If it dies off a lit, I should trim it down and see if there is enough life left in the roots to re-shoot from the base.

How about planting an assortment of sedges to take over the area. Many sedges can tolerate varying amounts of shade and moisture. Look for sedges that can also protect your bank from erosion. Garlic mustard is a biannual. First year plants forms a rosette close to the ground and it is not likely to flower. Second year plants gets much taller and will flower and set seed. After releasing seeds in the second year, GM dies. The problem is that GM reseeds prolifically and seeds can lay dormant in the soil 7 years or more. Pull plants as often as possible before plants begin to flower. Remember that once GM flowers, the task becomes more difficult because GM will need to be bagged and removed from the site. The downside of pulling is that pulling will expose more seeds to sunlight, encouraging more of the garlic mustard seed-bank to germinate. Spraying with herbacide is another effective method. Spray herbicide in very-early spring because GM is one of the first plants to emerge in late-winter, allowing you to isolate and target the GM better. Weed-whacking is another effective solution. This is best accomplished when plants are freshly in flower, but before seeds are forming. Weed-whack plants as close to the ground as possible. If you leave too much of the plant still standing it might have enough energy to set a second round of flowers. You can correct this by repeatedly weed-whacking if necessary.--better to get right to the ground the first time. Remember, you'll not likely eliminate the problem in one year but with each passing year you'll see progress.

Whatcha talkin' about - I just picked up a cabinet that was still in fairly good shape, that I thought that I could use. Then it appeared that it could do much more yeoman service in my landlord's shop. He gives me space in sheds and barn, plus space for a large garden, and replaced a pump in the barn that he really didn't need, plus added some pipes to irrigate it ... and cultivates it with his tiller. He wanted some space there, and hadn't planted anything by two or three weeks ago ... so I transplanted some of my tomatoes in his area, and some of those squash that had grown up in the space between the rows, also planted some onion, carrot and melon seeds. He invites me to pick asparagus in his garden. He's a nice guy, as I said: best landlord that I've had in years. ole joyful

I'd vote for having the trash closest to the prep space, not focused on the DW. You only generate plate-scraping trash once during a meal, but you generate trash many times during prep. The other place where trash seems to be generated in my kitchen is on the pathway from fridge or pantry to prep space when I'm shedding wrappings. Where do you plan to prep? Not being able to adequately open the DW and the trash at the same time would be a real pain. But it looks to me as though you would be able to have the DW face down and at least partially open the trash bin. There's no need to confine your thinking to the long sides of the island. You can easily configure it so the trash cabinet opens from one of the short sides. It helps to think through, or even drawn on a floor plan, exactly the steps you would take to prepare typical meals, ay attention to whenever your pathways cross back on themselves. These are places where better planning can improve your workflow, saving time, steps, and energy when working the kitchen. HTH L.