Shallow pond for tortoises (newbie at ponds)
outsiders71
16 years ago
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yng_grdnr
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agobuyorsell888
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
New pond-owner Newbie needs help
Comments (11)I should have added some more to my post. Sorry, I was stressed out from the rain and ground water sump coming loose and spraying several inches of water all over the basement in the middle of the night. The brushes I mentioned direct the debris into a net for easier removal. While you can use just a net it isn't all that efficient. If you have aquariums you have used Activated Charcoal, Activated Carbon or AC. It works the same way for the pond. It collects odor and tannins from rotting debris. That water needs to circulate so look into pumps soon. You can put a sock or muslin bag of the AC in the basket of the skimmer to start. Run the skimmer for the circulation until you decide on a waterfall pump. You might want to use some Zeolite too. That helps neutralize organic material, nitrates and nitrites in the water. I understand about the manure odor. I think it has become nasty smelling because of the feed the animals get instead of grazing on grass and hay. There may be something dead in the water making the smell worse and hazardous to work with. I wouldn't stand in the pond until it was a lot cleaner and it is likely very, very slick. If there are no fish you may want to drain the pond. It would certainly make the cleanup easier. Starting the waterfall would help since that tub you mention is probably the biological filter. It may have filter material in it already but if it has been turned off all winter I hate to think of the condition of the filter material. Take a look at it and tell us what you find. Poly quilt batting is a good and inexpensive replacement material. You probably need to clean it up before you start pumping water through it. If there is water in it there will be anaerobic bacteria which will smell to high heaven. A handful of Bicarbonate of soda can raise the PH. I like to use a slug made from Plaster of Paris since it keeps the PH steady and only works when the PH is acidic. Once the PH reaches 8. or thereabouts, it stops reacting. Since there are important details about POP, you can do a search to learn about it. You will find plenty of info. If you are going to add fish or you have plants you would hate to kill, you really need to buy a good quality test kit. It will run around $25. Don't waste your money on dip stick tests. they are rarely accurate. The advice from the other posters is good. You will find lots of help here....See MoreWhy Do Home Ponds Need All This Technology? Natural Ponds Don't
Comments (32)Waterbug guy, First I will talk a little bit about concrete in water. You say it is a myth that concrete in water can kill fish and raise the PH. When concrete first sets up the surface PH is 12.0. Which is the same PH as a drain cleaner called "draino". As it is exposed to the CO2 in the air the PH goes down. But water is a very good leaching agent and so water will continue to try and get the chemicals out of the concrete. So will the PH in the water be raised? If the water has normal PH of 6.5 to 8.5 the answer is yes. The real question should be "how much will it raise it"? That question isn't easily answered as there are a lot of variables. Just to list some the age of the concrete, the condition of the concrete, is the water flowing over the concrete, the natural PH of the water, is the water being changed, and the volume of the water versus the contact area of the concrete. In some cases the rise might be so low as to make it very difficult to measure. But in other cases it can and does raise the PH to 9 to 9.5. At these levels it can and does kill fish. If I remember correctly you have stated that you are a pond contractor. If you are I hope you having started using roofing liner in the ponds that you build. Most of the time a person on this forum is never going to have a problem with roofing liner. Can there be a problem with roofing liner? This should be the question. The answer is yes. The chances that there could be a problem is very low. The largest pond product manufacturer in the US sent out a letter to all their customers a number of years ago. This letter said that all their liner in the future would be tested to be fish safe as they got a batch in that was not. In other words they were selling roofing liner as pond liner. This company had been selling a lot of liner for 10 years before this problem. If it had happen today with the wide use of the internet I would have think that some lawyer would have gotten this information and started a class action lawsuit against them and they would be out of business. The lawyer could easily have sued them not only for the cost of the liner that they had sold but for the cost to replace all those liners in the ponds built with them going back to the first time they sold this liner. The largest liner manufacturer in this country has told me that almost never would you ever have a problem with roofing liner but you might. I think that as a contractor you can't take that chance. If you were unlucky and did have a problem and were sued over that problem the lawyer handling the case would find out that they would sue for every customer that you have that has this liner. In other words you would be out of business. So is roofing liner toxic? No most of the time. But there is a small chance that there maybe a problem. I have only talked about 2 of the 8 things that you listed. I could easily talk about many of the other things listed but my point is this. You listed these things as black and white but they are not black and white. The only thing that is black and white about ponds is that all aquatic life will die. Mike...See MoreAdvice On Pond Issues (brown muck)
Comments (9)Sandy & Lisa, thanks for the replies. First, Sandy, the brown stuff is muck not mud. Drainage from the yard and around the house all drains away from the pond and we've had very hard torrential rains since putting it in and mud isn't a problem (thankfully). This stuff, for lack of a better description, looks almost puffy when viewed up close, it's definitely organic. I think a lot of it is the pine straw (hate that too). After doing a bit of reading, I've decided it's probably dying algae, there is a fair amount of string algae coating the sides but I thought that was part of the natural cycle of a pond albeit as Lisa points out, it needs more vegitation. Lisa, I agree there is a lot of open surface area there. At present the lilies have started to come on but when I first put them in what I read said put the crown 6-8" under the water so that's where they are and the pads are small and they don't seem to be growing very fast. I think this weekend I will change that and put them all the way on the bottom, 18". The real question is what I do to it to make it right from a mechanical standpoint. We've discussed making it deeper, putting in a skimmer and biofalls filter and of course the more you read the more options you seem to come up with. It's sounding like that may be the best option in the long run. The trick is having a plan for what to buy and execute before doing it so that may be a couple months out. So maybe I need to take a different approach and look at the short term adding some plants. I also considered just buying larger pumps from Lowes to increase the flow as a temporary solution to control the problem (I've other stuff they could be used for later on), but the current filters say that while rated for 1600 gallons they're only 700gph. I'm assuming this is the UV flow and pushing it more than that would cut down on the effectiveness of the UV, is that really an issue though (short term anyway). Is sure seems to me like it needs more particle filtering. As to plants, got any suggestions more on numbers to start with & types? Thanks a bunch...See Moretaming wild pond, newbie questions
Comments (6)Thanks Here's a photo of one end of the pond (the shallow end) http://silvabullets.com/maple2/target5.html The entry point for the water is a very high water table. You can strike water wityh a post-hole digger around here. I think it is becoming a marsh becasue of untamed growth. We believe the pond was dug to connect to bay and create a crab inlet or perhaps for fill dirt on an adjacent property. It has been left alone for at least 10 year, maybe longer...See Morepikecoe
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agooutsiders71
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agosheepco
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agogoatiegirl
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agotillertilter
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agocomettose
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agooutsiders71
16 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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