Having just posted photos of the same plant last week, I concur with the experts here. Bidens. Do not hesitate to rip it out. If it blooms and goes to seed, you, your family, your pets, your guests, your neighbors and any local wildlife will be wearing the devilish little seeds for months!

Thanks for the suggestions, I did very little damage to the roots. Rinsed away all the potting soil, and gently untangled any roots I saw that needed straightening out. when I was finished, the majority of fine feeder roots were undamaged and still firmly attached to the thicker main roots which I had untangled. Even after cutting some of the thicker roots at the point of the 45 degree bend in them, there remained, still, plenty of fine feeder roots growing out of that thick root above the cut I made. No, the tree (when originally removed and repotted) was not rootbound. Just prior to this original post, I had at that time shaken off all the new potting soil, which many new roots had grown into, since I first repotted the 3 gallon potted tree into a larger 10 or 15 gallon decorator pot. Then after considering the early responses to this post, I dug the tree up again and rinsed the original 3 gallon amount of potting soil away, also. At that time as mentioned in my above response, some of those roots could be seen circling the trunk just below the first major sized roots growing out of the trunk, but I simply unwound most of them and broke only a few. So earlier, when I said that I bare rooted my tree, I did not mean that I had remove all the fine feeder roots like seen when suppliers ship bare root trees in the spring. True this activity did likely hit the tree and is going to set the tree back, But I could not do such root disturbance before the tree went dormant. As it is, the tree only dropped its leaves last week, due to our extended warmer than normal fall temps that lasted until the 8th of this month when cold rain began and temps flirted around the freezing mark just enough to create major ice damage on the area trees and powerlines. I am sure, now this tree is even more confused, since today our high temps rose to 61 degrees, and another cold front is not forecast to blow through and drop us back to winter temps, until this weekend. Today, no telling how the tree is responding to its roots, yesterday, being totally exposed, rinsed, untangled, spread out and recovered with dirt. Yesterday, I did position the root flare at soil level and filled around the roots with virgin soil. Then I mixed some soil with oak leaves and covered the planting area as a type of mulch. I still plan on covering the planting area even deeper with a shredded cedar mulch just prior to the next cold front; scheduled to arrive in a few days. I probably should install around the tree some "T" stakes and tie them, just loose enough so the tree can still move with the wind; just not enough for its roots to be pulled out of the ground so its fine feeder roots won't end up ripped away. Right now the tree is standing straight and tall, and I am tempted to think that since it has no leaves to catch the wind, it might not need to be staked, but in reality I do not want to be proven wrong once the windy cold front blows through and just in case it causes enough damage for me otherwise to have to be out in the cold, wet winds, staking the tree anyway. I had enough of such emergency staking to do, during last weeks cold weather event, for lots of my just about to become well established trees, which all summer and fall had seemed to not need staking.

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Not all rhododendrons and azaleas here have root rot either, not all roses have black spot and so on. It does not automatically follow that if a plant is a certain kind and certain problems are seen on that kind in a region, that every specimen will be afflicted. In the case of water molds the specimen has to become infested first, before the disease develops. As common as a particular strain may become at a particular time, not everyone gets the flu either.