Lovely pot!! To some degree, what you choose will depend on what shape you want - tall and rigid, tall and flowing, short and round, short and weeping, etc. My two favorite choices would be: Spirea Ogon AKA mellow yellow, which is fountain shaped rather than the rounded or bun shape of many spireas. White flowers, fine willowy yellow to chartreuse summer foliage, and red-gold fall color. Clematis Stolwijk Gold, which has gold to chartreuse leaves and early blue flowers. Grown on a medium trellis I think this would look stunning. Ninebark I think will be too big for the pot based on my P. coppertina. I'm personally not a fan of privet and IME they get pretty huge also. Some other thoughts: Yellow oak leaf hydrangea, Little Honey, though it has a reputation for being a bit fussy. It likes at least part shade Yellow-variegated shrub dogwoods (Cornus), though they might be too large Yellow elderberries (Sambucus) might stay small enough in your pot though they get large in the ground Clumping bamboos, though I am not sure if any of the yellowish ones will be hardy enough for you. Yellow leaved evergreens, such as some of the Chamaecyparis, would have foliage year round if you will be leaving the pot outside. Some heathers have yellow to gold to orange foliage depending on the time of year and the variety. Caryopteris such as Sunshine Blue have gold foliage and late season blue flowers. You'd need to check if the flowers coordinated with the pot. Gold grasses, either variegated like some of the Miscanthus, or solid like gold Hakone grass. You might also want to consider a water garden in your pot with papyrus, though it wouldn't be hardy or yellow. Here is a link that might be useful:

flygirl, That's a matter of maturity, but it can go a little faster if you give it full sun and some warmth, particularly in spring and fall (their main growth periods - as long as it's in a range of growing conditions, which you'll learn about if you read any of the threads here with lots of posts about jade / Crassula ovata, it will be growing). Personally, I'd have it on a high-energy diet, a very loose soil (so it can be watered often, but not too much), lots of air circulation, temps in the 80s during the day and 60s at night, bottom heat (which you can achieve if you wrap a cat around it), and quarterly fertilizings. Don't repot often, but if you see lots of leaf growth, prune (this will make the trunk at least appear to be thicker than it is, and eventually it actually will become so). Oh, and don't fuss over it - they like that phrase common to these plants - benign neglect. There's also an FAQ to read (check the link). Lennie and flygirl, That process of the leaf becoming a plant will be expedited if you mist the leaves a few times a week (possibly even every day, but I myself am much too lazy for that). Now's the time for them to grow until the hot weather. Here is a link that might be useful: Jaded Not Faded This post was edited by cactusmcharris on Thu, Apr 4, 13 at 9:49

Macranthos, I looked them over pretty carefully, and what you're probably seeing is a fleabane flower in the background. None of the linear, unknown plants were in flower. When I first saw the plants, they reminded me of Conyza. But when I took a closer look, I saw those pitted leaves and very hairy stems. I thought there was possibly a similar plant in the Asteraceae family. I also checked Conyza from China, etc., and found some possibilities, but none that seemed to be a close match. Now I'm wondering if this is some kind of hybrid. It looks like an ID won't be possible - at least until the flowers emerge. Thanks all.

I'm late to this party, but as I store a good many potroots inside at 55-65 degrees each year, perhaps my comments might help a future gardener with a similar 'problem.' Humidity is what triggers dormancy; cold temperature just slows growth down. When you bring a potted dahlia inside, it will try to keep growing until the humidity of the soil drops down to a certain level. There is no need for concern- just pinch off the unwanted green after it stops growing, as dormancy is important during the winter months. No worries... pinching the growth even a few times will not hinder the tuber's ability to grow in spring when you water it. "But I WANT it to keep growing!" If you leave the green sprouted late fall/early winter inside, it will not be healthy enough to survive into the next season, even if you water it and provide some light. You need significant grow lights to achieve healthy growth flowering in the winter, with ventilation and fertilizer... but who wants 4 foot plants to baby all winter long, with the associated pests that accompany it? If the answer is YOU, then check out pot growing websites, as they have it down to a fine science and spent a pretty penny on appropriate equipment/supplies. I'd rather pinch now and dream about the outdoor bouquets made along my fence rows in summer... Cheers! CiCi