The problem with liquid fertilizers is they only have fractions of an ounce of food in them. This goes for Hasta Gro, liquid seaweed, and all of them. An entire bottle of liquid feed weighs about a pound. Whereas a bag of fertilizer weighs 50 pounds and goes down at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If you applied 20 bottles of liquid per 1,000 square foot, then you'd have something going. When bunnies are held in captivity and deprived of any fresh food, then they will eat alfalfa pellets. When they have free choice, they are not attracted to dry alfalfa pellets. When you apply alfalfa pellets, they will remain as pellets until they become moistened. Then they swell up and, essentially, burst open. Mold is one of the biological processes we rely on in organic gardening. The molds (fungi) are essential to healthy soils. There are tens of thousands of fungi which are considered beneficial in the soil. Those that decompose food are among them. Unless you saturate your soil and drive away the air, the fungi will be beneficial. If you soak the soil and cut off the air, then the microbes turn anaerobic and disease starts. Just let the soil dry out and it will be fine.

I know this question has been asked in the past, but technology changes rapidly, with new products constantly appearing "NEW AND IMPROVED", so I would like to readdress the question of which vapor cleaner to buy. Also, many of you have, by now, made your decisions,for better or worse; it would be very helpful if you would be willing to share your experience. Everyone appears to love the bissell and the shark, but, true to form, I am leaning towards the higher end models, like the Ladybug, and others of that level I have mostly hardwood, stone and tile which I have read do best with dry vapor. A carpet cleaning ability is still critical because, although I have only one carpet, it is my much used and abused media room in the basement. 2 teenagers and 3 dogs, I have to be able to clean the carpet! Is it best to have a vacuum option? I can't imagine steam being capable of removing debris, and I would hate to have to both carry and use a vacuum cleaner as well as a steamer. Also, how important is the continuous clean feature? Will I regret, down the line, sacrificing this feature to budget restrictions? It seems to me that the continuous fill upgrade, while apparently give-upable given that it adds only to convenience , not efficiency represents a change of levels, in conjunction with other features like rapid heating or hotter steam that I consider priorities. So much information, but I have not yet read anything that answers my main question "WHICH ONE SHOULD I BUY?" Please advise!!!! Thanks, Nora

i agree with alley ... choose the best looking specimen ... length of show is ambient air temp variable .... if temps seem to spike right at elongation ... its a short show ... if air cools at that moment at time ... longer show ... either way its a one to two week show ... golden feathers is otherwise green the rest of the season .. buit oh what a show in spring ... blue version i have .... is always a short show ... and a rather pale yellow ... and much slower growing .... i do not know if its the same as spring blast ... ken Picea pungens 'Spring Yellow' .. the name i bought it under

Volumetric air flow rate (CFM) is determined by the type of cooking (and hence cooking plume volume and velocity) and the area that must be maintained at a velocity that ensures containment of captured plumes. For residential hood designs, I recommend 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood entry aperture. Light cooking on induction might get away with 60 CFM/sq. ft. If your hood entry aperture is 3.5 ft x 2 ft (it should overlap in both directions) or 7 sq. ft. in area, then you would need an achieved/actual CFM of 420 to 630 CFM. Given pressure losses of baffles, ducts, and imperfect make-up air supply, I suggest a factor of 1.5 between required air flow rate and blower rated airflow rate, which is only achieved hanging in free air. So your blower ratings would be 630 to 1000 CFM. However, the above assumes a conventional hood, which this Zephyr clearly is not, judging from the images at the link. The actual intake aperture area is not the full width and depth, so the calculation and the capture effectiveness are not applicable. The overall width changes, but the area collecting effluent is the same between models, and there is no design shape to encourage plumes to get to the collection zone. It also doesn't use baffles, so so who knows what the pressure loss is. In summary, this hood is for decoration, and will not cope with real cooking except that eventually it will clear the kitchen (house) of whatever effluent remains in the air and hasn't settled out on walls, ceilings, and fabric. Is this quasi-hood intended to be vented outdoors?