Nitrate High...What to do?
asun1
15 years ago
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larryl
15 years agoasun1
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Ammonium nitrate fertilizer
Comments (9)This is a very complicated subject to address in one post.. hogging all the space and read time. The biggest aspect of organic and chemical fertilizers has to be the solubility. In water it becomes a part of the ground and surface water thus available to plants. Organic fertilizers for the most part are in the inorganic form requiring biologicial and chemical action to make them plant available. This means that in plant material form they need decomposition. In compound form they need the chemical action of separation. In these forms they remain fairly stable within the soil versus leaching or escape as gases. The processed chemical forms rely on the solubility to become plant available. So much depends on the temperature, moisture and incorporation with soil. The chemical fertilizer (ammonium nitrate) give a rapid shot of available nitrogen which initiates rapid growth. The growth rate undoubtably exceeds the plants ability to take up the other nutrients, particularly the balance of trace minerals that are essential for full plant development. In this case the high nitrogen results in maximum growth as carbohydrates and low protein. [Actually varies with differing soils and total rainfall.] High carbohydrates are the foods of weeds, pests and diseases. The resulting infestations leads to counter measures, usually more chemicals as herbicides, pesticide, etc. Many of the soil organisms are sensitive to this spectrum of chemicals. Loss of soil organisms further reduces the natural cycles (nutrient and decomposition) that provide minerals and nutrients to the plants. The organic fertilizers essentially become a part of the natural cycles versus replacing it. The soil organisms provide the biological and chemical processes that make the organic fertility available in the soil solution. Plants also play a part in the process. Roots do exude nutrients for the community based on their needs and desires. Think of it as a order from the menu. These exudes stimulate members of the soil community that work specifically on particular soil components; bacteria for decompostion or fungi for mineral provision. That is as simple as I can put it into words. One of the key advantages to organic fertilizer is the slower release or availability, often over years versus weeks or months. Organic does not rely on the single source. Check out "Sources of Nitrogen on Organic Farms"...See More...where do you get the Calcium Nitrate for the CHC potting mix?
Comments (1)Just type in calcium nitrate and gogooled it....See MoreHigh nitrates...drain? tips/helps
Comments (4)You didn't finish shocking. Something is in the water. Anytime free chlorine combines with something, be it bio-badies or tanning lotions, it becomes inert. Nitrates mean zilch. Killing the algae before it can eat solves any issue there. If its a bio-badie, the time spent draining and refilling will give the bio-badies the opportunity to reproduce. If you have a salt cell, your CYA is perfect at 80. If you are tablet fed and not in the Southern latitudes, then diluting will be needed to reduce the CYA level. With your current level of CYA, bring the FC level to about 40 and hold it there until you can pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you can take the calcium, cal-hypo can be used. I prefer using bleach (6%) or chlorinating liquid (12%). Scott...See MoreWays to add Nitrate of soda/Sodium Nitrate to mulched garden?
Comments (5)The mulch isn't the problem but already planted seedlings are. Are your seedlings planted in rows or scatter-sown? When row planted you would just rake the mulch back from the plants and then do what is called side-dressing of the row in a 4" deep trench about 3-4" out from the row of seedlings. Cover with soil and then rake the mulch back into place. If scatter sown that is impossible so all you can do is dig some pockets for it in among them - depends on the plant spacing. Using one of the many liquid forms of N would work better in that case. If you dilute it in water it needs to be well diluted and you still need to keep it from direct contact with the plants. And keep in mind that tested N levels all depends on the soil temp. The cooler the soil the lower in N it tests so as the soil warms the soil nitrogen levels will rise too. Don't over do it. Better to add frequently in small amounts at a time rather than over lead it. Dave...See Morehoovb zone 9 sunset 23
15 years agoloma_ponder
15 years agopikecoe
15 years ago
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