Hi alieliza, Your plant and spike look very healthy, but six months is a very long time for an autumn spike to stay at that stage. Even with winter sun and cold nights (60-64 degrees) my "windowsill" phals begin to open in less than 4 months. This is a guess, so please consider it with a grain of salt. I think that I remember your post spiking phals earlier--they were either yours, or those of someone who clamps in the same way. The clamping is what made me notice them. When clamping a spike to a stake, I carefully avoid touching the leading several inches that carry the flower bud beginnings. In fact, I place the clip Below the top-most bract (that flat, green scale-like thing below the buds). My theory is that the spike tip might stall, or grow wrong,if it "thinks" it is pinned down or blocked. If you care to test the theory :) you could reclamp the spike Below (but not touching) the upper bract, and Very Gently remove the clamp that is presently holding the top of your spike. It might take the spike a week to figure things out, but releasing the tip might give it the jumpstart it needs. I hope it goes well. Sweetcicely

I don't know what it is now, to be honest. I tried calling a few years ago to see if I could get a copy of my certificate, since my 'evil ex' took it, and was told they had stopped keeping those records. If I lived in Florida that wuld definitely be genrating some 'political' action on my part to get them to start up again. I also don't remember the actual weight either, but the length was 21 3/4 inches long, and what really surprised Tom McCubbin (The Agricultural Extension Agent for Orange county at the time) Was the variety, a Burpees Burpless, #13. Not a small cucumber, but not one generally expected to grow to record type size. And it really was pretty tasty. It was in 91 that we broke the old record. When I lost it, I got beat pretty good, if memory serves, like by about 10 ounces.

First off, "Good Luck" This is my 2nd season growing bushel gourds so I am no expert either. However this is what I would tell you. Check your last frost date, for me it's April 15th and I direct sow outside ASAP after that day. (sometimes a day or two early) Compost, Aged Manure, and PLENTY of water. I start mine with a standard 10-10-10 until the vines get about 10-12ft long. Then back off and switch to a fertilizer that's less nitrogen and much higher in phosphoric acid and potash.. Nip the end of the vines after they get to the 10-12ft mark.. (or a length that allows for 1-3 gourds to form) Thus forcing the plant to "feed" them rather than feeding several gourd-babies. So in summary I would say. " Compost,Manure, Direct sow, 10-10-10 fertilizer,clip vine at 10-12ft, switch to fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potash. and Water like the dickens ( whatever the dickens are.) P.S. Watch for pests, Water the plant at soil level not leaves (could cause problems) and possibly attempt to prevent "powdery mildew" (sprays available for cheap) Again, Good Luck (hope I helped alittle)

i asked a local florist about the right way to collect roses and other flowers from my garden before transporting by car. his method worked well for the roses but i have not tried this with hydrangea flowers. his recommendation was this: make a strongly-angled cut early in the morning and immediately plunge into water that is about 110-120 degrees (i guess that is just hot tap water). place the container in the refrigerator after the water has cooled down to the ambient temperature for the night before transporting the next day. i have read that some flowers, such as sunflowers, need to have the ends of the stems seared with an open flame after cutting and before placing in a vase. you could try that, as well.