I've done the keiki paste on cut stems of phals, and also (once) on a stem still attached to the mother plant. Stem still attached-- keiki formed, but the mother plant went downhill and the keiki followed. I wasn't sure whether trying to get a keiki caused this, but never tried again with an attached stem. Cut off stems in a vase of water. You get the best results with 1. Do it in spring. Keikis started under plant lights in winter did start, but never seemed to have as much strength and eventually died off under a barrage of experiments to stimulate growth. 2. Big thick strong spikes off a strong plant form bigger stronger keikis better. Thin mewling spikes off a small plant don't take. 3. Do the uppermost two undeveloped nodes on a stem, max. The bottom ones develop slower, weaker, and are lost to rot as the stem goes. Trying for more than two per stem probably robbed the top nodes of needed strength. 4. I covered the paste-node in a baggie, blew in it, and put the stem in a glass in a sunny west window. Every so often, I would blow in the baggie again to keep air in it. The top node forms the keiki first, even in a basement under lights, why I decided they need light. In the sunny window, strong little keikis formed pretty readily-- maybe six weeks. Even in a window with sun hitting the whole stem, the top node forms a keiki first. I took the baggie off when the keiki looked "strong"-- what can I say, the leaves are either turgid and tuff looking, or they're pathetic, or you're not sure yet. 5. You have to keep cutting the stem at the bottom as it starts to rot, just as you would a flower stem in water. Full disclosure: The keiikis made this way were strong and beautiful, and wonderful to see them form and grow. BUT I never got roots because... I had made up to four nodes per stem, leaving only a couple of inches untreated at the bottom. As I said, the bottom nodes had the weakest keikis. As the stem rotted up, and the bottom keikis formed, the growth of the top ones seemed to slow and turn glacial when the keikiswere about 1/2 to 3/4". There were no roots or root nubs. I began to trealize one sut stem, however thick and healthy has only so much nourishment in it, and can't get more. I decided the bottom keikis on the stem were inhibiting the growth of the others. I think I was right about that, but I made a fatal error trying to correct it-- I cut the stem into pieces, each piece with one keiki on it. I (wrongly) thought this would help the stronger ones along. Instead, the cut pieces were too small once the rot began at the bottom, and I had to throw out the whole experiment a few weeks later as the two-inch pieces rotted away. Putting the small pieces on a bed of damp sphag instead of in water didn't help either. If you try it, do it in a sunny window in spring, and do no more than two keikis per stem on a thick, strong spike. PS I also tried a technique I read about, cutting the stem into two inch pieces and laying flat on damp sphag. This did not work for me-- got only rot and mold, and that in a short while. Probably kept the sphag too wet, but not sure. I am thinking of trying again this March, with thick stems of a favorite, and one treated node per stem. If I get all the way to roots with it, I'll definitely post about it.

Strictly speaking this is not a keiki. A keiki is a fully formed miniature plant, complete with roots which, in the case of phalaenopsis forms up on the flower stem. This is basal shoot. The distinction is important as unlike a keiki, basal shoots should not be detached from the parent plant.

As Arthur and orchidnick can recall, posts in this forum used to be heated and fun, kind of like this one... I think everyone chiming in and with pictures and "discussing" leaves for a good thread... I used to be on here years ago and just recently came back... I don't think we should shy away from input from all sides. that side I'm on the side that says keiki's aren't a good idea... but I realize that to kids and noobs it's the excitement of seeing something sprout... like sowing your first veggie garden or wildflower garden. As leafhead is into butterfly gardens, I love them and the best butterfly gardens boast diversity with different plants flowering at any one time... but unfortunately orchids are different... their flowers are too energy and time consuming... many flowering plants grow and flower within the limited scope of a single season, or in the case of northern temperate perennials grow in a single season then go dormant, once you sprout you have to get going if you're going spread your seed so to speak... coming from tropical ongoing usually consistent climates orchids can really take their time, hence an orchid can take so d&*^ long to flower from flask! So weakening them like growing keiki's just isn't a good idea if you want flowers... and yes we're talking about commercial run of the mill phals... a number of species keiki readily... but even those can put a bit too much energy into that and not so much blooms. Maybe that puts a little more insight into situation? or sometimes I enjoy preaching to choir...

Grafted roses send basal breaks from the bud union. Own root from their crown. The bud union is the heartbeat and source of new canes from the scion. If they did not, the rose's old canes gradually peter out and production lessens for blooms and more new growth. If they didn't throw basals, most moderns probably (HT, Floribunda, etc.) wouldn't last more than a couple of years. These new canes directly from the bud union ARE basals from which other vigorous growth may ensue. It's like saying that two engines don't use gasoline because one is carbureted and one is direct fuel injection! What nonsense- just two methods of delivering the goods which allow the engine to run! Exceptions of course lie with Chinas, Teas, and their kin (which I am unable to have direct gardening experience with due to climate, but understand through others' expertise and first hand dealings.) Some roses are more apt to exhaust wood quickly or are very vigorous and send out multiple points of new growth. My Angel Face seems to prefer building on top of an old framework of canes whereas my Gallica (found) seems to need a bit more removal of tired canes and is forever sending up new (and suckering gleefully into the yard). I'm an optician and hear people say some crazy things about their glasses/eyes. All I can do is smile! and think, "Just because you say that doesn't make it true!" I've even had a man tell me he never ordered a Flexon frame from us EVER even though I personally helped him pick them out last year and have record of it in the computer system! Sorry for diverging off topic. I know not of any means of encouraging new basal growth. I say as long as the rose his healthy, thriving, and blooming, let it be. Steven