well, yeah, you will be disappointed if you expect practical "first bonsai" kind of advice. Naka's books aren't really meant for beginners. They really weren't meant to be books. They are compilations of short articles he wrote for his classes (which weren't for beginners). Bonsai Techniques II, particularly isn't going to be of much help if you're trying to get the hang of how to water your tree. It is a book for more advanced bonsai folks and the detailed information on pot selection, makers and images is likely to leave someone just starting out just plain confused. While the books are excellent for many things, they're not the best starter material. Peter Chan, Colin Lewis, Harry Tomlinson and others have produced books that offer more concise books for beginners. Don't get me wrong, these books should be part of every bonsaist's collection. They aren't my first choice, though, of ideal beginners' books, especially when they command more then $40 and up, for each, nowadays...

There are orchards in Tennessee, but no large ones near where I live. I have seen small plantings (10-15) trees around some of the local farms, but would be surprised to find that those growers were "experts". In any event, I don't know any experienced individual fruit growers locally. It seems to me that feedback from multiple sources, such as here on Gardenweb, is one of the best ways to get info. Another good thing is the "peer review" that goes on here. I have talked to the local extension people, but have found that the amount of helpful information from them is definitely limited. I think the combined years of experience here are probably highly useful compared to any single source with which I am familiar. As for planting the graft union right at ground level, from what I read about burying the graft unions to reduce/eliminate burr knots, I'm not sure that planting the graft unions at or just above ground level would work. I think the idea was to plant the trees so that the scion would form its own root system and eventually bypass the 111 rootstock. Has anyone else had good or bad experiences with 111 concerning burr knots? Anyone have any information about how much difference the EMLA (virus free) rootstock makes? How about the tomato ringspot virus issues?

We have a Guardian fence around the pool. We did not want a fence at first, but have grown to love it. It lets us keep the kids out of the pool while still allowing them to play outside. It also gives a piece of mind knowing that even if one of our kids gets outside they won't be able to get in the pool. It does take away from some of the beauty of the pool but it is a sacrifice you make especially when you know people that have had unfortunate incidents. Swim lessons are great, but they are no replacement for safety devices. In my opinion the nets are fine during the winter, but I do not see myself taking down and putting up a net every day during the summer. The pool would end up uncovered most of the time which defeats the purpose. I have not read good things about the pool alarms either, false alarms, etc. The fence comes down easily if you want to take it down but we find ourselves leaving it up all the time.

Bermuda is going to invade every thing from flower beds to flower pots so you just have to stay on top and remove before it overtake's. My approach is burying a treated 2x8 on edge about 2 feet from mound. That make's it easier to notice first invasion so it can be removed. Don't tell on me but I've been known to use herbicide on 6" path outside barrier.