If you use two transformers then you'll need an electrical isolator in the tracks. Basically you don't want two transformers powering the same electrical section of track. As for dimming, either: 1) You have the wrong dimmer. You have to make sure that your dimmer matches the type of transformer. For example, if it's a magnetic transformer, you need a magnetic low voltage dimmer. Or if it's an electronic transformer, you need an electronic low voltage dimmers. 2) It's just not dimmable. The lower priced/ end transformers generally can't be dimmed without a hum/ buzz.

What I have now is low-voltage xenon lights with internal transformers inside each fixture. I'm looking at replacing them because of continual problems, like multiple burned-out bulbs and a burned-out transformer after 16 months, and innards so full of wires and wire nuts that the fixtures pop apart if I removed the glass diffusers (or spontaneously in the case of the smallest strip.) Judging from online reviews, these are common problems with the model that I have. We have line voltage coming out of the walls for the three separate runs of lights, all on the same circuit. If I understand correctly, the electrician can use the existing wiring to install either low-voltage lights with internal transformers (NOT the same brand!) or line-voltage lights. I bought the lights we have based on looks, function, and the showroom salesman's recommendation. Never would have thought to ask to see the inside of the fixture, though.

Hi, When we built my house I asked the electrical guys to put in Wall plates for CAT6 (dual, one for ethernet, one for phone) at each point. Then bring all the home runs into the basement with plenty of slack. You can do the CAT6 stuff yourself, but the most difficult bit is you need to do it in a timely manner. I.e. you need to get all that wiring done while the sheet rock walls are open. Remember on a build, time is money. If you throw off your GC's schedule there is a knock on effect. A 4 month delay is going to hit you on interest and cost overun charges. I would get the contractor people to: 1) Put in the home run CAT6, x2 per point 2) Put in Coax for TV, x2 per point 3) Put in Coax to the roof (for possible Satalite dish) 4) Put in Coax to the roof (for possible Antenna) You can then mess about with the home runs and your rack of equipment in your basement after you move in. The home theater bit is more tricky. You need to put in lots of cables for that TV. Also these cables have finite length. 30 feet is like very long for an HDMI cable. While you have your walls open put in: 1) HDMI cables x2, from TV to cabinet 2) RGB cables x2, from TV to cabinet 3) L-R Audio pairs x4, from Tv to cabinet 4) Coax where the TV will sit to basement 5) Coax where the Video recorder will sit to basement 6) Video, x1 from TV to cabinet 7) S-Video, x1 from TV to cabinet 8) Power points with Surge supressor socket in wall at TV 9) 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick piece of plywood where you want your TV to be. A big piece, and secure this to your wall studs and place behing the sheet rock. Those TV's are heavy, especially if you want a swing out articulated mount. That is alot of cables. Avoid Monster cables which are a rip off. I got all my cables from Pacific Cable. Prices and service I found to be good and the cables work fine. I recomend alot of cables because once you put up that sheet rock, you are done, no chance to change. For complete home theater you also need sound. I did not have speaker wires put in. So am not that much of an expert in that area. I would say that ticker is better and fortunately fairly long runs are OK. You need to figure out where your speakers should be though and plan accordingly. Other low voltage wiring includes, Alarm, Smoke, Carbon monoixide detectors. recommend you get ADT / Brinks or someone like that to ensure it is up to code, and will interface OK to their monitoring station. Finally there is the door bell... which I would leave to your carpenter. So that you have a nice looking finished look. Wiring is easy. Mounting nicely etc. more difficult. Hope this is useful. Best, Mike. Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.pacificcable.com/

I have never seen landscape lights that were connected in series. They are always connected in parallel. To remove one from the sequence, simply make sure that the connection (splice) to the next light in the sequence is secure. The best underground splice will be soldered and insulated with glue-lined heat shrinkable tubing, but if you don't have the tools or skills, waterproof wire nuts should do OK for you.