As long as we are brainstorming--part of the problem is finding a way to transfer solar heat deeper into the ground faster and storing it during the cold night period- using the ground as storage to try to get a sort of thermal flywheel effect going to get through the cold night. My idea âÂÂonly half hatchedâ is this 1. Hammer sections of copper, aluminum, steel or whatever conductive pipe you have into the ground-exposed part painted black. 2. cover with a thick layer of your favorite mulch. 3. install a clear plastic cover over the pipes you drove into the ground----Variables to be considered are many--- a few are a) the spacing of pipes. b) the ratio of buried to above-ground c) what thickness of mulch is the most beneficial d) would 2 layers of plastic with an airspace between work better e) instead of pipes how about a L shaped piece of metal like an unassembled length of ductwork 8"x12" purchased from Menards or Lowes. They come in 2 L shaped pieces. Bury the long 12" side. Paint the exposed part black and bend it to an angle it to face the sun, f) would insulation buried alongside your test planting area improve heat retention. g) bury 8â side and angle 12â side to sun. The duct comes in many sizes 12âÂÂx 12â ��"4âÂÂx 16â etc. Benefits: cheap-easy to build and store -----towards spring and planting season, the benefits of the warmer ground and more direct sunlight might combine with this system to gain us a week or two. Any other insights as to other variables and/or âÂÂconsiderationsâ before I give this a try in the spring would be appreciated.

Yeah, I went on Ebay and am bidding on a mat, found some cables there also. I have used a cable system on and off for years with great germination rates. Bindersbee: The soilbox, propagation box I made was wood sides cut to the size to fit the size 3 regular flats inside it with pegboard on the bottom if it needed drainage. Next I put styrofoam as an insulator ontop of the pegboard. I put a layer of sand next. Went to the hardware store and had them cut hardcloth the inside size of the box. I attached the heat cable to the hardcloth with zip ties. Turning the heat cables towards the sand. Then I put soiless seed starting mix ontop of the hardcloth. I used this ontop of an old chest freezer that has been in the basement for who knows how long and is gonna take 3 men and a small boy to get out of this "ole" house. My basement has very low ceilings due to being a 200+ yr old house. I used the wood beams above to hang 2 sets of flourescent light fixtures.I put pulleys up to move the lights up and down. After I sowed the seeds I placed a old glass storm window on top placed the lights ontop till they germinated. Soil temps ran in the unheated basement in the prop box at 76 to 78 degrees. When the seeds are up I remove the glass topand grow on. I hope you understand I don't have any pics and gave away the wood box.

I'm in the planning stages but have put tons of thought into this. Hopefully I won't have to tweak it too much when I do the framing walkthrough. (You really should walk though the framed house before finalizing the locations.) No Christmas package (don't decorate for holidays) or intercom. Outlets at a few locations specifically for nighlights (in bathrooms and in hallways) so we don't have to flip on the overhead lights in order to use the facilities in the middle of the night. Switch for the bathroom fan between the toilet and the vanity (instead of with the other switches near the door) so that it is accessible from the toilet and standing in front of the vanity. Duplex outlets near the TV area. Duplex outlet mounted higher on the wall than normal for the main phone area which will be a nich in the wall. Duplex outlets to either side of all potential bed headboards. Oulets dedicated for cell phone charging in an elevated nich. Duplex outlet, tv cable (for internet) and phone (for fax) anywhere that I plan to (or even might) have a computer. Outlet immediately beside the loft railing in case we ever want to put lights across the railing we can plug them in without a tripping hazzard. Although we probably won't need them, I am putting one oulet just inside each WIC. In my workshop, I'll put an outlet 5' high so that I can put a shelf under it to hold a small radio and clock but still be able to put tables or work space under it. Outlets closer together than Code requires so that it's more convenient. Switches for a room at EVERY entrance into that room. (Our current house doesn't have switches at every entrance and it's a pain.) We will have a small vestibule (for guest entry) and small mudroom for our entry from the garden that are beside each other. Their lights will be on the same switch so that when we walk from outside, into the mudroom, into the entry (from interior access) and then finially into the main house we don't have to flip lights on and off every few steps. Just once when we enter the mudroom and again when we enter the main house. Don't forget electrical service for any undercabinet lights. There are past threads about outlets that are mounted so that they are accessible from inside cabinet drawers so that clothing irons or hairdryers can be left plugged in all of the time and stored in the drawers. I'm considering that, too. In a similar manner, outlet inside of mixer lifter kitchen cabinet for mixer. Outlets and switch for pendant lights on the kitchen island. Outlet for microwave that will be raised above countertop height. Exterior grade outlets at multiple places outside that are easily accessible from the porch and patio areas (not for Christmas lights). Outlet at attic access incase I need to plug in a light there since we will have minimal lighting there.

I like no-till gardening, but it is hard for me to make it work. I think what has worked best for me in the past was to grow a cover corp, which I needed for organic matter to improve the soil. Then, because my soil is nearly always too wet and too cold, ( I live in a low area ) I would mow the cover crop and start tilling, even though the soil was too wet. I had to get it bare to heat up and dry out. I know that is not good on the soil structure, but if I wanted to get a crop in before the weather got so hot that the tomatoes would not set fruit, I did not have a lot of choice. Another factor in my gardening method now is that I have become too old to till and get around well. It also take a lot of mulch, which I may not have access to. I like to use wood chips, but I don't always have wood chips. I think we all love gardening or we would not be doing it. Another thing we can agree on is that none of us have perfect conditions to work under. I would also say that we all like to experiment a little, which means, at times we will be doing things a little different, some work well, some don't, but the most important thing is to enjoy what you do.