All Bran - no problem. I was only ignoring your specific questions until the OP's question got answered. That is apparently done and yes, no activity. Back at that time you had marched ahead and were asking questions that the OP had not really gotten up to. But if you are going to hijack a thread, you may as well do one that is the same issue ;-) Winterizer is designed to provide a heavy dose of N, so that's what it does. Last winter might have been a fluke, though, where the N got used in the warmer conditions. Normally 2/3 of the annual N goes down in fall. The "normal" way to do that is to apply one dose in late spring after the main flush of grass growth is over (remember Memorial Day). Then apply another dose after the summer heat breaks (remember Labor Day). The winterizer goes down in mid to late fall (Thanksgiving). These dates are easy to remember but might not apply the same to someone in Miami as well as someone in Green Bay. You do not need to dethatch. Thatch comes from frequent fertilizer and daily watering. That is not you. You do not need to aerate. Aeration brings up weed seeds you do not need. If your soil seem to be hard even after watering, then you can spray it with clear shampoo to help the water penetration. If you want to fertilize now, you can do that with organic fertilizer, not chemicals. Organic fertilizer can go down any day of the year.

Paul I get the impression your friend in SD is NOT a lawn nut? Bermuda hybrid sod is an investment more geared to a better than average homeowner who appreciates a nice lawn willing to do the work IMHO. Now with that said it does not have to be a high input, you just have to accept the fact you are not going to have that golf fairway look or deep dark emerald green. S here is my advice, opt for one of the common seeded varieties. It is a lot less expensive, and does not require near as high of input like monthly fertilizing, or mowing two or three times a week. It can look pretty good with just a couple of applications of fertlizer per year and only need mowing once week at 1-1/2 to 2 inches. If that sounds right to you, let me know and I can give you a list of seeded varieties I think will work good in SD. The list is pretty big because SD doesn't have any cold weather to deal with. I mean even Arizona common would work, dirt cheap, and available anywhere, even feed-seed stores. If sod is it, I can give a list of suppliers in SD area, but I can tell you right now CA is very proud of sod, like 200 to 300% more proud than my area.

I just reseeded and redirted my entire yard. They say not to plant grass seed until March 15th (soil temp has to warm up) but what I've found is the grass will indeed sprout, just not as fast. And, the last few years the rain has stopped in February so I wanted to plant while Nature was still supplying that all-important moisture so I don't have to slosh thru the mud with the sprinklers. 2 cemetery groundskeepers told me that they reseed every day of the year in the PacNW and it works. Just not as optimally as March 15 which is now too hot and dry to work. Used to be folks worried about winter seed getting too wet and rotting but it just does not rain as much anymore. One thing to keep in mind: if ground is soggy, and you use heavy equipment, it can damage the structure of the soil and compact it. So go lightly if wet. I have a worm bin and compost pile where all leaves and yard debris and kitchen scraps go, happy worms = awesome wormcasting = best possible mulch/fertilizer. More experienced gardeners will weigh in ...;^D

cut & paste from another thread this morning: "Quinclorac kill crabgrass. It's the active ingredient in Drive XLR8, you can use any brand and it will work. Some people (reeljake) uses Sulfosulfuron (Sedge Ender) and it works fine as well. People have have pretty good results keep most weeds out of their bermuda with Celsius and Sulfosulfuron. Plus there is no issues related to applying in hotter temps. Reeljake also uses Dimension with active ingredient dithiopyr as his pre-emergent, I use Prodiamine. With either you want year round coverage to keep ALL WEEDS from germinating. You will need to start your PreM asap to keep winter weeds at bay, then again in Spring for Spring/Summer weeds. PreM: Prodiamine or Dimension Crabgrass: Quinclorac or Sulfosulfuron General weeds (post-emergent): Celsius - 2,4-D will work also but turns grass yellow If you get the correct products, it won't matter what the weed is, it either will never germinate in your yard, thanks to the PreM, or will die when sprayed with the post-emergent."