Do you mean B. ornatissimum? It's also still refered to as a Cirrhopetalum in a lot of places.
It's been renamed as Mastigion ornatissimum. They never will leave names alone! ;~)
I don't actually have one and couldn't give specific cultual recomendations.
I have noticed a big general improvement with many of my Bulbos/etc with an increase in the light.
I don't care what the recomendations are about shady or whatever, are.
Many of my mounted ones are outside now(protected from the sun!), but the indoor ones are under a lot of light!
I don't measure it and couldn't say what the readings are. I just go by feel.;~)
I also have a lot of air movement to keep things from getting stale. The sphag, etc gets sorta' crunchy sometimes and I don't stess about it.
With the temperature increase outside and more water, many of mine are sending out new growth like crazy!

I also looked through my saved links and thought that this, if you haven't read it, could be very helpful.
The OrchidSafari Archives are a great resource and have been of great help to me.
Getting answers from one of the best is always good! ;~)

Scott

Here is a link that might be useful: Bulbophyllum Care and Culture

I'm with Scott. I was having a lot of aborted growths and loss of old growths. I upped the light and let them dry out more, and they're doing terrific.

Stacy

I also agree with Scott and Stacy. I've killed bulbo's keeping them moist. I was told by a well known local Orchid nursery that they like to dry out between waterings. Mine are also mounted. They are alive and growing

Clara

I think that a major problem with growing many so-called tropical orchids is an oversimplification of the climate variations that they come from.
They grow everywhere from South America, Africa, Madagascar, SE Asia, West Irian, New Guinea, Eastern Australia and the Western Pacific Islands.
Not all of them grow constantly in hot and humid air dripping with water.
The places that I've seen in SE Asia have Monsoons!
That doesn't mean that it rains all the time. There are the summer monsoons that brings tremendous amounts of water, all at once, and even then things aren't always consistant.
Winter monsoons are very different and generally cause drought. Sometime about a decade ago, parts of SE Asia had a major drought and massive fires.
My parents were living in the region and told me how bad it was. I went over later and saw much of the damage.

Many of the African ones require a dry dormant rest, if you want any blooms.
Yours, I believe, comes from higher elevations in India and down through Thailand, Malaysia to Sumatra.
It might not need the higher and consistant temps.
It sounds like a major candidate for monsoonal treatment! ;~)
Scott

*sigh* Decisions decisions. Why can't orchids be easy. LOL Guess we'll try the drying out more ...

Thanks folks!

You need to up the light - inside morning sun filtered through a screen is not enough light. I grow my Cirrs. in a greenhouse under 50% shade cloth, hanging high and depending on the mix in the basket, they are watered every other day or every third day.

Brooke

Hmmm, well the leaves are light green in color so I assumed that lighting was about right.

"...so-called tropical orchids..."
If I can quote myself and make a correction in the vagueness, I was refering only to the Bulbo/allies group!

This is, maybe, also valid for the 'Rainy season and orchids' topic.

As several have stated, so much depends upon your personal micro-climate, needs and level of care.
(There is a lot of overlap in where these things come from.)
Also, for me, much of the amount of success was dependent upon the actual size of the mounted orchid. A larger one is able to absorb more without problems.
My first attemps at mounting orchids failed, several years ago. I had deflasked some Bulb.echinolabium seedlings and mounted them too soon.
I couldn't keep up and lost all of them.
Personally, I under water most things. So, I have to take that into account.
Even during the summer, I have 50F temperature swings. I could see my breath last night and today the temps are in the 90'sF in the shade.
We're supposed to get over 100F over the next few days.
(At least the tomatoes will do better!) ;~)

My many different methods do better at different times of the year and with the amount of free time to fuss over them.
I just watered my outside mounts for the third time today.
Most have sphag, but many do not!
As the temps will drop accordingly, I won't water late.

The only way that I was able to keep my, non-Pluero, s/h with sphag healthy this winter, was to do a major increase in the light, warmth and air circulation.
Cold wet roots/media and stagnant air would have caused the death of many. I let the sphag get crispy at that time, as well.
Now, they're sucking up water faster than I can keep up.
Even my Pluero types do better with higher than recomended light levels.
I had a burnt out bulb, in my palludarium, that I delayed replacing and lost a valued new growth on my Pleuro. pectinata. ;~(

I have several that I grow usings my version of Bill Thoms methods.
Like I said at the start, it helps to learn from the best! ;~)
I use a non-draining tub/container with s/h pellets and a loose layer of sphag on top.
It stays damp w/o being wet and the Bulbos are allowed to seek out what they need.
I think that making many orchids work a little, for their needs, makes them stronger.
It's like infrequent deep watering vs. constant shallow watering. ;~)
My water is beyond soft, so I don't worry about mineral issues much!
I just have take into account my conditions and care level.

Since I love the look of mounted orchids, I mounted many of my species Bulbos, last summer.
The amount of care and level of, hopefully benign, winter neglect also went up.
It's just too difficult with my curent sub-standard conditions.
I just do/try what works for me!

This is a really great topic to bring up!
To paraphrase an old joke,
"If everyone liked the same thing, I be beating guys off Grandma with a stick"! ;~)

Scott