You need to find some complete Cymbidium notes that relate to the Zone 9 where you live in the USA.
But note that in Sydney, Australia, Latitude 34 South they are outside all year plants. They are more Terrestrial than some other orchids and therefore require a potting mix that retains a little more moisture than that used for say a Cattleya.
The Cymbidium "experts" let the mix dry to just moist and they water.
Your Cymbidium should have a new growth starting from the base of the largest and newest pseudobulb facing away from the camera on picture 1.
Remove that dead stuff from the oldest pseudobulb and increase watering a little bit. Get the plant up off the ground so that it gets a bit of air movement and find a place where it gets some morning sun.
They are temperature tolerant. Average temps Sydney, Australia
Winter 7 min 17max
Summer 17min 27max
Temps down to 2C in winter are not a worry.
Find those complete notes and good luck.
PS. I do not think it need repotting.

Be patient. The growing season has just barely begun. In fact, where I live we are just now dividing ours.

I am in Sacramento, Ca. I just moved the plant outside, so it does get air movement. It is off the ground and gets dappled afternoon sun. I don't have any place to put it where it will get morning sun unless I move it next to my front door :/ How much sun should it be getting total?

I am perfectly fine with being patient, but I want to make sure I'm giving it the proper care before it dies from some neglect on my part.

What would be considered "dead stuff" ? Should I for example, remove that leaf with a black base that is visible in picture 2?

Also, what is your opinion on the state of the roots peeking out (picture 3). I'm not sure if those are healthy or not...please let me know your thoughts.

I also forgot to mention that I've never added any kind of fertilizer along with my watering so maybe that is contributing to its appearance? I ordered some Dyna-gro Grow formula as I noticed quite a few members use it on their orchids. Any thoughts on what amount I should be adding? Would a weakly weekly regimen be a good idea?

Thanks!

Doesn't look that bad. I had 3 of them for a number of years until they got so massive I gave them away, as I was kind of sick of hauling in and out for the seasons and my wintering space was limited. Probably just a combination of being kept a bit too dry and just general adaptation to the new environment which is obviously different from the commercial greenhouse where it was raised. Keeping it outside in filtered/dappled sun sounds about right, just make sure its initially shaded enough to not sunburn until its used to the site, then you can move into a bit more light as needed.

I'm hardly an expert, but I think they're pretty tough plants, and I bet it will perk right up outside and then probably put on a flush of nice new growth.

There is an orchid society in Sydney where you will see nothing but Cymbidiums.
They are weeds! Clean up the leaves with a botanical oil or even milk. Maybe remove that leaf with the black spot.
Feed it in summer with miracle grow all purpose plant food and give it as much sunlight as you can without burning the leaves. The expert growers here have them in a spot where they get all day sunlight filtered by light shade-cloth to prevent burning on hot summer days.
Seek advice from the locals about whether you can it it through winter without doing the inside trick. I suspect you can but it depends on your micro-climate.
Some will say that you should repot it in new mix,but i hesitate to recommend that course of action to a new grower. Look for that new growth at the base of the plant.

Your cymbidium was drying out, they should be kept slightly moist during the summer and kept outside in filtered sun until the first frost.

In Southern California and much of temperate CA, cymbidiums are grown outside year round. They like bright indirect or filtered light, hence the thin, strap-like leaves. More light, the more likely they are to flower. The like their "feet" cool. Even moisture, but never wet. Growers routinely have the plants on low benches, not far off the ground. But never touching the ground. Cymbidiums require a seasonal cooling (fall and winter) to bloom. They can tolerate some frost and are fine with temps in the low 40s to upper 30s F.
During fall and winter, feed the plant with low nitrogen and higher phosphate fertilizers. Higher nitrogen fertilizers are used during the growing season (actively producing leaves) just after blooming season (usually spring). Low humidity often brings with it spider mites. So be on the look out for that.
The media looks old. There's moss (or what appears to be dead moss) from what was a probably a wet growing environment. Now is not the time to repot cymbidiums. Dividing and repotting are done right after the spring blooming season, or early summer. If the plant is in true distress, which it doesn't seem to be, leave it be and repot next summer. However, this plant seems overpotted. Cymbidiums like to be crowded in their pot. They flower best when they are just about to burst from their pot.