Flee, You want to only soak the root system depth of the plants. Turn on the irrigation and poke down in the soil with your hand or some type of tool to determine when the water gets to the bottom of the roots. Time when you started and stopped. That is what you set for your timer. Time will depend on the growth stage of your plants and how much water your type of plant can tolerate. If the plants are stressing check if it is too much or too little water by probing the root zone. Over time you will learn what your plants need when. Do you need that calculated in gallons per week. I would need your drip flow rate(gph or gpm) to do a calculation for you. JMHO Aloha

Do the math: 45 feet at 6" spacing is 90 drippers. If they are 2 gph that's 180 gph. At 50 psi 1/2" line is typically 300 gph So at first approximation, you are running out of water. Now, I've ignored pressure drop on the way to the garden. I've ignored the drop from joints. I've ignored that 25 psi regulators aren't always 25 psi. Try this. Go half way down the mainline, and squish it with a C-clamp. If the emitters upstream from this work properly, then you are running out of water. Change the 25 psi regulator for a 35 or 40. Or replace your main line with 3/4" Another possibility is that you got dirt in the line, and your emmitters are clogged.

My gardens are all drip irrigated, and it's the best thing I did while planning them! My supplies came from Dripworks, who have great customer service and design assistance. Unfortunately, no one but you can answer your question. It all depends on the roses, the weather, your soil, your emitters, your water pressure ... I could go on and on. For some sort of guidelines, let's use my front hybrid tea bed as an example. I have clay loam soil, mulched beds, half-inch supply lines, and one adjustable Shrubbler emitter on each of the 80 roses in that garden. I don't know exactly how much water each of them gets, but running the system for 2 hours whenever it's been dry seems to be enough. I use a simple manual rotary timer on the hose to shut off the water after 2 hours. All of my lines run on top of the ground, but below the mulch. The only part of the system that's visible are the emitters. Hope this helps, Connie

If you're still looking for drip solutions, I have found a perfect solution for my garden in adjustable drip emitters on a stake. See link below. It's kind of a pain to try to drip every single plant, especially if you're trying to distribute water evenly to start seeds. I can water 4 or 5 plants at a time with each adjustable drip emitter. They adjust easily from 0-10 gph by just rotating the heads open or closed, and having them on stakes allows me to put the water exactly where I want it rather than wrestling with the ever-curling 1/4 tubing. I buy the 25 packs of emitters at Home Depot for $17, and I can put 25 emitters (attatched to 1/4 tubing) on one 1/2 inch line with perfect pressure to all. I water for 45 minutes every evening at 6pm. I have no solid data to back me up here, but my theory is that my plants are resting and restoring their strength in the evening and throughout the night and can best use the water then. I also think it ends the heat of the day a little faster for them. I also like to start my early mornings in my garden, so I walk around before it gets hot and wet the ground in an attempt to keep them cool for as long as possible. They seem to respond positively. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Dig Adjustable Drip Emitters