That is correct about Sarco. ceciliae. it should be grown underpotted with the base of the plant level or above the pot rim. My ceciliae are grown warmer than hartmannii as well.
Fitzgeraldii has similar requirements to hartmannii. The really difficult one at least in my conditions is falcatus and perhaps that is one referred to in the literature. I know that pieces picked from the forest floor on casuarina branches and twigs live for a while in captivity before pining away.
Haven't tried some of the more obscure species such as australis which are also reputed to be difficult...in fact David L Jones in Native Orchid of Australia says "This species has proved to be impossible to maintain in cultivation and for its future conservation should be left in the wild." Amen.

I've wandered off on a bit. Summary
hartmannii easy
fitzgeraldii easy
ceciliae easy provided you think Underpot
Most hybrids easy
falcatus avoid, i'm not even going to buy nursery raised ones. The strange thing is that the hybrid of falcatus x hartmannii (S. Melba) is very easy to grow.
Finally, my best plant of fitzgeraldii is grown in bark and diatomite in a basket pot. Unheated glasshouse. That means many winter night temps are near the average about 7C . some lows down to 5C most temps under 10C. Daily lift in temp to about the average of 17c or slightly above whereas my 20 or so plants of ceciliae are grown in another glasshouse where the lows are much the same but early day heating lifts the days temps considerably.

Well, I was going to jump in and say that I have mine potted in sphag; but maybe I need to rethink that. Maybe I need to add some diatomite to that sphag.gb

Ginnibug, if spag is right for your conditions do not change just because of what is wriiten in my post.

I have two hartmannii. The first one came as a tiny seedling in bark a few years ago. It did OK in that stuff when it was small, but I moved it to lava rock over a year ago and it has really taken off. I think it just may be spiking as we speak. Can't wait.

The second one came to me last year as a small plant and it's loving the rock too.

K

Arthur, thanks for that.

This makes me wonder if I did some research before I acquired the cecilae, as I grow things dry and warm ;-)

A falcatus also arrived the other day - this one is mounted anggarifically. (sorry, was just talking to Mr Breeze earlier today.) Good for avoiding crown rot but it looks a little funny. In any event, I can't grow anything mounted on cork, so I will be moving it - since none of the roots have actually stuck to the cork, the move will be easy. The question is how to grow it - I'm thinking about grape wood or tree fern. I'm also thinking about pots of sphag or lava rock. I really don't know. I'll have to do more research. What I've found so far suggests it might like pleuro culture :P

Interesting that everything I've read recommends a bark mix for fitzgeraldii, and that's working for you.

Just looked up a few entries in the volume Native Orchids of Australia by David L Jones.
re. falcatus he doesn't agree with my comments about this orchid being difficult because his cultivation notes start with "This easily grow orchid.... and in notes he says " It frequents a range of moist habitats, but always where there is plenty of air movement. In the mountains it is often prominent near gorges or on ridge tops where mists, clouds and drizzly weather are common occurences......"
Where i observed it growing in a river valley on tall Casuarina trees, the sides of the valley were clothed in temperate rain forest while the Casuarina trees grew at the base of the valley near water. As for picking up bits of orchid lying on the ground, after a storm, i do not agree with that at all, such debris being just part of nature. Besides that the line bred cultivated varieties are better.
In the same Tome the good Doctor Jones says that S. fitzgeraldii is "almost "exclusively" a lithophyte. I'll go along with that because roots have run out of the base of the basket pot and are stuck to the bench.

Arthur, I don't think your comments about falcatus being hard to grow are that far off the mark. For some people it flourishes, for others it falls apart.

Komi,
The species predominantly growing as lithophytes are hartmannii, aequalis (used to be a included in hartmannii), fitzgeraldii, cecilae and roseus (used to be a included in cecilae). The lithophytic species are generally easy to grow, although cecilae and roseus will suffer if over watered hence the need for a underpotting and a less water retentive mix. hartmannii and fitzgeraldii tend to be very dominant in crosses. I'd be inclined to grow their hybrids more like these plants than the other parent. As for appropriate mixes, I guess that's dependant upon your conditions. They don't like drying out but if overwatered the roots tend not to grow into the pot. In a mix as water retentive as sphagnum you may need to keep an eye on this. FWIW I grown mine in a bark/scoria mix.
The rest of the species generally grow as epiphytes, need to be mounted and are usually more difficult to maintain in cultivation for long periods (falcatus and olivaceous fair better than most but they're both easy to kill). So as not to put you off falcatus, my two falcatus are ~4yo (permit collected plants) and seem to be growing OK. The growing area is cool, shaded and humid but with a lot of air movement. The mount is a branch of hardwood but it's covered in moss and watered regularly. Speaking to people who can and can't grow epiphytic Sarcs well, good air movement seems to be an important factor in success.

I'm late in thanking you both, but I did see your posts come in and spent the rest of the week wishing I had time to tend to the falcatus. (Work has been rather intense lately.) It's been declining but at least I can be fairly certain that better air is the most critical factor. Managed to give it a bit of fungicide today and situated it better. We'll see how it goes from here.

In the meantime, hartmanii and fitzgeraldii look fine.