Good questions, Terp. Didn't expect any responses as there are so many variables. In Florida I use rain water most often. I have rain barrels all over, hooked to every down spout. I collect as much as I can to get me through the dry months. They do get hosed occasionally and the tap water here is very alkaline. I use RO when I run out of rain water or am too lazy to go out and fill a watering can. I am not good with fertilizing as I'm lazy. If a plant is really dry, it gets a sip of water. I probably fertilize every few weeks. Nothing mixed, just the fertilizers I mentioned. The purple leaves/growths are extreme. Never saw it to this extent. Almost black but really a deep, dark purple. New growths are affected. Dens and Catts. Underside of large Catt leaves are deep purple. I ask the question because some of these plants I've had for years. These are not new growths on newly acquired plants although I'm seeing it on those also. The growths from last year are green. I'm seeing it this season. I suspect nutritional or water pH because that would be the only change in a year. I've used the same fertilizers for years and always used RO in the past. So far all the plants appear healthy and good root growth, just these weird purple leaves. Thinking it might be light levels, I've moved them around but that didn't change anything. I haven't tested the tap water because I rarely use it. Just a spray from the hose once in a while. I'm more curious than concerned. I'll try to get a few shots tomorrow. Found a pic of one. Back side of leaves Here you can see the top side is greenish. Jane

You picture of your Nova Zembla doesn't show any specific problem, just a general lack of vigor. The essentials for a healthy rhododendron include: I. Variety: The rhododendron or azalea must be suitable for the climate where it is planted. Nova Zembla is a good variety that should do well, even in full sun. II. Soil Drainage: Because the fine roots of azaleas and rhododendrons are easily blocked by fungi, excellent drainage is important. To test drainage, dig a hole 6 inches deep in the bed and fill it with water. If the water has not drained from the hole in four hours, install drainage tile to carry away excess water, or build raised beds. Moist well-drained soil is a must for most varieties. This sounds difficult, but it means to not let the soil dry out completely but don't get it too wet. Thoroughly water if necessary and then let it become almost dry. Most gardeners do this by planting in a well-drained area and mulching to hold the soil moisture in. Watering is seldom necessary except during long dry periods. III. Acid Soil: Most varieties require an acidic soil (pH 4.5-6). Powdered sulfur is the best agent to acidify the soil. Holly-tone has this in it. Your plants will get chlorotic if the soil is not acidic enough. IV. Fertilizing: When rhododendrons and azaleas are not planted in ideal locations they may develop chlorosis. Chlorosis is yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins. Your Nova Zembla doesn't show any symptoms of chlorosis. V. Shade: Some shade; some varieties like full sun to bloom but others suffer from too much sun. Nova Zembla can take full sun where I live in Pennsylvania. Prune off lower branches of shade trees so that you have "high shade" above your rhododendrons. This is ideal for a healthy rhododendron bed. VI. Mulching: Rhododendrons do best when they have about a 2" to 3" layer of mulch to hold in moisture, prevent weeds, and keep the roots cool. Since most mulches are organic, they need to be topped off periodically, usually about every year or two. Do not make the mulch over 3" thick. Keep the mulch about 2" to 3" back from the trunk/stem of the plants to avoid bark split and rodent damage. Do not use peat moss as a mulch. It is a soil amendment to be used when preparing the soil in a bed and can cause severe problems when used as a mulch including dehydrating the soil and preventing moisture from reaching the soil. It also tends to blow around. It is best to mulch with a 2-inch layer of an airy organic material such as wood chips, ground bark, pine needles, pine bark or rotted oak leaves. A year-round mulch will also provide natural nutrients and will help keep the soil cool and moist. Rhododendrons have shallow roots and do not compete well with weeds and grass. Also, don't try to cultivate around their roots, this will harm the roots. Only mulch will keep the weeds and grass under control. VII. Protection: In choosing a location to plant rhododendrons and azaleas, protection is very important. Protect from winter winds. This is especially true when the ground is frozen. Also protect from deer. This doesn't appear to be your problem. VIII. Cultural Problems: Most problems are cultural. Cultivating rhododendrons and azaleas must be avoided. They have shallow roots and the roots will be severely damaged by cultivating. Weed killer from weed & feed products is a definite problem also. Salt from sidewalks in the winter is a killer to azaleas. Soil near masonry such as foundations and walks is usually alkaline (not acidic) and a problem. Lawn fertilizer in the fall can set an azalea way back. Another problem is the roots of walnut trees. They emit a chemical that is toxic to rhododendrons, azaleas and many other kinds of plants. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.

They had them at Lowes. I have mine in part shade because of the variegation. Its still in a pot until I can see if it likes it there, lol. It was the first time I had seen such bold colored foliage. Its a beauty. My other white and green variegated one bloomed today. I need to get some pics of it tomorrow. It has dark pink blooms. Got a cool looking yellow on green variegated plant the other day too. It keeps things interesting when nothing has flowers with interesting foliage.

Yes, there are trees that have dark red leaves all year. Even a few that survive in Wisconsin. Not aware of any that have fiery red leaves all year. Alas, sugar maple and red maple (despite the name) do not. Sugar maple is fiery red in the fall but green the rest of the year. Red maple is bright red in the Spring and (if you are lucky) in the Fall. Green in between. Ditto for Nyssa sylvatica 'Wildfire'. As far as trees that have dark red leaves all summer... If you have the space and patience, copper beech is...the best. It just kind of is. Totally breathtaking long lived tree with deep red leaves and perfect form. Should survive your cold winters. Unfortunately they are somewhat slow growing and difficult to transplant. Japanese Maples are kind of the standard for this use. If you want something smaller, some kinds of crabapple, like Prairifire give you flowers and red/burgandy leaves. Leaves may turn green in the summer. Purple Leaf Plum would also give you flowers and red leaves. Could you look up your USDA zone? What is your soil like? Sandy, salty, compacted, muddy, clay, alkaline? How far would this be from the nearest road house or power line? What threats will this tree face? Road salt, wind, gypsy moths?