How are you growing this plant? In what? Temp? light? fertilizer? etc. Have you repotted it recently? Maybe checked the roots? What color are the leaves? Are all of the newer pbs larger than the ones preceding?

I think before we can help you encourage it to grow better, we need to know what you're doing now.

Carolyn

Here is a picture I just took of mine. It needs a cool, bright, dry winter. By dry I mean DRY. I move mine (I have 12, one larger and the rest small) to the brightest spot in the GH and didnÂt water them for 6 weeks. Then I moved them back into their places where they would get watered. The newer growth is the lighter green and that is a better shade of green for them to be.
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Great picture, much more advanced plant than mine. To answer Carolyn's questions: it is growing in general orchid medium, which seems mainly to be bark etc. It is directly under a 25 watt bulb (about 2 feet), but I do not use other extra artificial light in winter and I suspect this is the main problem, since I am quite far north (60N latitude). It has been in pretty constant temperature through winter at roughly 22 C (72 F) since I don't have greenhouse or orchid cupboard. The leaves on old pseudobulbs are like the darker ones in Richard's photo above, and the new leaves are substantially lighter, a rich pale green. New pbs are bigger and longer, which I hope is a good sign. I repotted about 18 months ago, which I think was a mistake. It is in a clear glass pot. I haven't checked the roots directly, but the ones I can see through the glass seem to be healthy, mainly creamy white or pale green. I fertilize with Schultz 0rchid Food 19-31-17, as per their instructions, but am trying to find one with lower N, which is what some others have recommended, but I cannot for the life of me find the right thing.
I water once a week or so and fertilize about once a month.
Thanks for taking the time to read this far. As you can probably tell I am very much a beginner and this is my first orchid.

You have to follow Wilford Neptune's instructions. It will never, ever flower if kept at a constant 22C .
Obtain a copy of Wilford's instruction sheet and go from there.
This is an unkillable plant adapted to survive droughts, heat and cold. Those growing in my shadehouse at latitude 34S have an annual temperature range of about 4 to 40C.

If you can't find any fertilizer specific to orchids, Miracle Gro for tomatoes is a good substitute. Dens don't like a lot of nitrogen. Also, dens bloom better when very potbound. If you repotted 18 months ago, the new roots should be starting to fill the pot.

Bloom or Bust, you participated in the previous long discussion about this orchid. Much valuable information there. Go back and reread.
To sum up, in winter, you have to be cruel to this orchid.
Night about 7C, perhaps a bit of dew.
Sunrise,: about 7:00 am (latitude 34S)
The sun will on most days be seen, the sky will be blue and the temperature will rise to a maximum of about 17C.
The arid westerly wind will blow and the relative humidity will be low.
If it does rain, it will rain, not drizzle, the plants will get wet but seem not to be affected, in any case rainy spells are brief.
Sunset 5:00 pm
Read Wilford's notes again, they are the best.

Here is a link that might be useful: Previous in-depth discussion

Arthur, many thanks again for the advice. I guess if I read you and Wilford together and stick to it, this critter will come round.
All the best.

I like the look of Richard's plant too. Underpotted is the way to go. One grew on a mount on the South Wall of this house for years and years. Placed there by my Neighbour above a little garden that she could see when she opens the front door. From now to late September no sun there. An arid place where the wind whistles through. Not much fertilizer,only early morning sun in summer, almost all natural rainfall and it bloomed ever year till the mount fell to bits.

The above is not there as culture advice only to tell you that you have to forgot whatever method you are applying to grow say Phalaenopsis and think Eastern New South Wales rather than Hawaii.

A feature of many of these Australian Native Dendrobiums is the perfume. Perhaps faint on one plant, you catch the scent before you see the displays at the Spring shows in Shopping Centres.

As long as I showed you the top of the plant, I thought you would like to see the roots. Looks fine for now, certainly for another year. Then maybe clean up and slightly up-pot. Nothing until winter is ending for sure.
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The roots certainly look impressively dense, which seems to tick the box people recommend with this one, to have it tight in the pot. I think my transplant was way too early, but the roots starting to fill up the pot now (18 months on) and I trust that, given the other right conditions, it might be a bit more comfortable now.
By the way, is a breeze considered generally good for dendrobiums? Arthur, I know you are a fervent advocate of growing den. king outside if in suitable conditions, and mine gets a bit of breeze when outside. But I was wondering if it would be best to keep it in a draught when indoors, since for the winter I have to keep it inside. Certainly your description of the natural habitat would seem to indicate so.