In my very limited experience and knowledge, I think I would NOT cut it further down at this point but only make sure the break is a clean cut with a disposable razor. I do not put cinnamon on the open part of the plant when I cut it but just watch it carefully. Maybe someone more familiar with doing this can comment. I see no reason why your phal should not throw off another spike from this one but it will take some time. As far as I know, cutting of the entire stem makes the plant spike from "scratch" which is desirable when you want the plant to rest between flowering. Cutting back to the appropriate node give the plant a "head start" to the next flowering...so essentially, you will wait a bit longer but not 8 months. Hopefully, two nodes will propagate and you will get twice the blooms :)

Without a picture, I'd guess let it be as they are pretty tough. Bob

Hi All!! Thank you for your comments - I have repotted her in orchiata bark, and I have decided to partly bury only two of her roots (Their top parts (like maybe 2/3rds of the root) are still aerial, and they come up right to the side of the pot/are right by the air holes in the sides - I'm monitoring them, and if they start to rot I'll take them out right away) She has new roots growing in so hopefully those take to the medium. I don't soak her necessarily, I more douse her roots for a few minutes with running water from a small watering can I have (Careful to not hit the leaves or anything XD) and make sure I get all the medium wet. I do this about once a week or once a week n' change. Small update: One of her leaves (the 'newest' one aside from the tiny one that's growing) snapped off - When I looked at it the other night it seemed to have split a bit in the middle, then when I tried to move it lightly to get a better look it Came right off. The Other one seems to be splitting off, too (the stalk part of it is turning yellow) so I'm amking sure not to jostle her too much. However ever her new Baby leaf seems to be a bright grron color/seems to be fine, and she still has those two new roots coming in/her old roots are seemingly healthy, So I don't think I should be too worried right now - Perhaps she's getting rid of the old leaves to leave all her energy for the new stuff? I'm unsure, Lol 'XD I'll update again in a while after she'd been in the pot a few more weeks X3 Thank you all Again!!!

What kind of grow medium is it in, and did you make sure it had an 'extra' measure of water to carry it over while you were away? It looks like oedema/ edema, a physiological disorder. Something I wrote about it: Oedema Oedema (aka edema) is a physiological disorder that can affect all terrestrial plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves. Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady. Some things that can help you prevent oedema: * Increase light levels and temperature * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems. * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity. * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil. * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants. Al