You're doing way better than I did when I got my first orchid! It was a Phal, and although I got to briefly enjoy its gorgeous purple blooms, it died a slow death due to rotten roots and over-watering... I've since learned quite a bit about the culture of different orchids, and have started a small collection... including an Epi radicans cutting, a young Cymbidium, a Dendrobium keiki, and a new Encyclia seedling... so far, they are all alive and growing nicely, each in what I hope is a good spot for them. I know exactly how it feels to fumble along, hoping you are giving each orchid the care it requires... especially since there's conflicting information floating around the internet, and you're trying to match each orchid to the perfect spot in your home, which is so not a greenhouse! They do get under your skin, though... and I know that the first time one of my orchids spikes and blooms for me, all the worry and wondering will have been worth it!

For inexpensive species Phals, check out Oak Hill Gardens. They always have a big selection. But be sure to check out sizes, as a $4 bastianii is a small seedling. You don't need to buy a blooming size plant (price marked with an asterisk), but depending on your level of experience, you can choose one a year or so from blooming. Over the years, I have gotten many of my species Phals from them. Just a bit of information: Phal braceana is a cool-intermediate to cool-grower and will not be happy with 95F summer temps (I keep mine in the air-conditioning during the summer). Phal cochlearis grows on limestone cliffs and likes a more alkaline environment -- I have a few chunks of S. Fla coral rock in the pot with it. Speaking of limestone cliff dwellers, Jay has a good list of Phals. Just do a search of the page for the word "limestone" Here is a link that might be useful: Phals growing on limestone

thank you arthum! should i also cut the burnt looking leaves off or keep them as they are untill they fal off naturally?

I understand your hesitation to stress the plant too much, but I would do something to facilitate those leaves getting up toward the surface: remove some of the bark from that side, snip some of the dried-out roots that are hindering its progress ... something. Personally, I'd soak it in a bucket/bowl for 30-35 minutes to soften things up, unpot it, still in the bowl, to gently clear it of that old bark. Then I'd snip all of the dead roots near the crown, and get it back in the pot in a way that will let that keiki grow upwards.